Despite his sleep deprivation, Adam Arnold was witty as ever at his intimate show on Friday night, which he narrated with anecdotes and back stories as clients, friends, and sundry associates called out the occasional question and murmured approval of his designs. As of yesterday, he is still recovering, sleeping many and odd hours.

The collection for fall is my favorite of his yet. In keeping with the geodesic dome inspiration, he showed “Bucky” pieces (after Buckminster Fuller) that were pieced together in a skirt, a dress (no side seams!), and an isometric sweater that was part of the men’s collection, but which had as many women on the make. The piéce de résistance was a geodesic coat, the patterns on the intricate print matched up on the pockets—something Arnold half-jokingly attributes to the “dead tailors” who occasionally possess him when he executes a difficult thing to perfection almost unconsciously. Outside of the immediate theme were classic Arnold pieces that continue to explore his range of clothing—although custom demands a new collection for each year’s season, Adam’s oeuvre feels more like it’s ever expanding than limited edition, and he encourages his clients to work with him to change the length of a dress, the width of a pant, and so on.

Through feats of fit and tailoring, these high waisted midriff pants caused one observer to wonder at how Arnold made a very slender woman look even more so.

Along with a killer suit, model Wade shows off Arnold’s new logo, a series of rotating As.

All photos below are the much better quality work of Arnold’s studio-mate, Christy Klep: