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Sunday, October 21, 2007

Fashion Portland Fashion Week: Day Two

Posted by Marjorie Skinner on Sun, Oct 21 at 2:24 PM

Last night at the shipyards went a little smoother. I think I finally cracked the press registration code, and bleacher seats had been added to give the back rows a better vantage. Likewise, the clothing that came down the runway had a sunny disposition, with lots of brights (orange keeps coming up) and easy, movable shapes and fabrics.

First out of the gate was Lizzie Parker, a vision of cozy layers (I surprised myself by liking the leggings many of the looks were styled with, though I preferred them long when in all but one case they were shown bunched up around the knees.) artfully draped and peeping open. I was less into the big butterfly print that threaded through the collection, especially in the form of wide leg pants with wide butterfly cuffs. It worked better in a flouncy farmer’s daughter skirt with a gingham ruffled hem. The finale piece was a dress whose skirt rippled with white feathers. Very on-trend, it nonetheless seemed a little odd paired with its tight jersey bodice, though not necessarily in a bad way. And what do you think: Not counting the leggings, would you say this is one piece or two?

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Next up was Duchess, who showed impeccable men’s suits, quite often paired with Dayna Pinkham’s Pinkham Millinery hats, although she was, unfortunately, uncredited in the program. The suits looked great, if a little short on some of the tall male models, creating a (probably unintentional) Thom Browne-through-the-ages experience, as suits rolled out from the patterns of bygone eras. The colors used in both the suits and their accompanying shirts really popped and modernized these historic creations, though part of me wishes that Duchess would design something less straightforwardly vintage, if only to prove that they can. Regardless, the results were the night’s sharpest.

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Nike Considered showed next, with a slew of techy sport and outdoorwear, like a hoodie whose hood doubled as a short cape, sporty white jodhpurs, and complicated woven leather backpacks whose straps looked big enough to carry pistols—something you might want on your next unguarded safari.

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Alula proved to be quite pleasing, opening with a charming yellow pleated skirt with a paper bag waist and a pleated-bib tank—the very vision of springtime. A pair of sporty blue short shorts could easily find their way into my wardrobe, while a seersucker version with matching jacket had a slightly irritating (intentional?) malfunction, in which the pockets peeked out from under the abbreviated hems.

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Finally, after what seemed like a shorter intermission than Friday night, Sameunderneath began with a skit-like introduction during which founder Ryan Christensen conducted a classroom scenario, gesturing to chalkboard slides that asked, "Who is Sameunderneath?" "What is Sameunderneath?" "Why is Sameunderneath?" "When is Sameunderneath?" "Where is Sameunderneath?" followed by—depending on the question, quick shots of everthing from MLK, staff photos, Bob Marley, JFK, soup kitchens… all a bit hard to keep track of, really, when out of the corner of your other eye the model/pupils were taking turns leaving their seats to tour the runway in tees emblazoned with inventively placed animal motifs, knee length shorts, t-shirt bubble dresses, and other casual looks that the company has made its name on. Theatrics done, a more traditional runway show ensued, showcasing plunging backed jersey dresses, his-and-hers long shorts (and one pair of jams!), some really nice men's jackets, with or without logos, in rich shades of pumpkin and brown, dressed up women's tees with embroidery and back-tying sashes, lightweight sweater tops, a cute, ice blue women's sweatsuit with knickers and a fitted hoodless jacket. The color scheme, again, included punchy oranges and salmon, greens, and purples—many of which found a home in a busy, recurring pattern that I could have done without. The final piece was a two-toned number of powdery grey-blue and salmon, which was heralded with hoots and clapping from a very supportive and enthusiastic audience.

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