Last night's episode of Project Runway was a huge step up for home girl Leanne Marshall, who last week found herself in the bottom two after creating a garment that the judges felt "had too many ideas." (No thanks to her model, by the way, who totally turned on her during the judging. Check out this un-aired clip of Leanne giving her a talking to, and rightly threatening to trade her at the next opportunity. Do it, Leanne, she has bad hair anyway.)
This week, Leanne dialed it way back, and created a look that showed restraint while maintaining her signature in an exquisitely scalloped skirt with a simple draped top--Heidi Klum declared that she would wear it "in a heartbeat," while guest judge Sandra Bernhard expressed disbelief that she could have finished so poorly just one challenge away. Leanne didn't win, but she essentially got second place, with the camera panning back and forth between her and Kenley's look, a risky montage of busy print and lopsided tulle with a short skirt and high neck that seemed to initially put off everyone, including Tim Gunn, who, when he went in to check on the designers' progress, fretted that the fabric combination threatened to be too costume-y, and judge Michael Kors, who teased that you could wear it if you had a goiter on one side of your body. Nonetheless, they convinced each other to make Kenley the winner.
The loser, meanwhile, was Emily, whose dress was admittedly crappy--a one-armed LBD with a giant caterpillar of cha cha ruffles that cut straight across her boobs and down her torso to end on the right edge of the model's crotch.
But the dress I most disagreed with the judges on was Terri's dress with pants look accentuated with ridiculous clown sleeves. Terri kept saying she was going for a graffiti inspired street look and Bernhard even said it looked like something a girl who carried a knife would wear, none of which I read in this high-knecked bonbon hands thingy. 
Leanne's outfit was hands down the best. Maybe not the riskiest, but as far as what most stylish women are going to wear, come on:

It's subtle yet remarkable, classy and edgy, and she made it in one day. I think she's going to New York.
The annual Junk to Funk "trashion show" is scheduled for November 15 at the Wonder Ballroom, but submissions are already being called--the deadline is October 15. Now in its third year, its message of promoting sustainability in design has been for the most part heard, with a fleet of Portland apparel and accessory designers who use re-purposed materials for all or part of their work, but it's a fun event and a great opportunity to create something resourceful and theatrical. Check out some photos from last year's runway, then take a peep in the nearest dumpster. Ah, nothing like a nice big whiff of inspiration.


Talk about paying extra for distressing:

These Levi's are currently on eBay with current bidding at $15,100! Found in a Mojave Desert mine, and are believed to be circa the 1890s. They're in surprisingly excellent condition! Seriously, compared to some of the brand new styles you see on the racks at Diesel, these are totally mint.

i do hope that whoever ends up with these actually wears them. At least once. Speaking of which, bidding closes in less than 19 hours, so hop on it, eccentric millionaires.
I've been a skinny jean fan for a while--since as far back as 2005! It's been soooo long I'm getting kind of bored. Plus I think it's about time for the fashion pendulum swing back to bootcut (Prada showed some flared trousers this season and Prada's like the NOAA for fashion).
I'm not talking about the bootcut jeans of yore, which were ass-crack low and too wide in the leg. The nouveau bootcut has a slimmer (but not tight) thigh, and a higher waist. Great for athletic guys (read: guys who have more muscle than a 12-year old girl).
They're not the easiest jeans to find. Local 35 is testing a style from Nudie Jeans. Here they are on Local 35 owner Justin Machus:
Cute, right?
Gentlemen, prepare to get excited: There's a new store that's on the cusp of opening that has been created just for you, and that store is Winn Perry (2505 SE 11th, Ste 102). Curated with the same level of artistry that is brought to the many female-targeted boutiques in town, Winn Perry is the work of Jordan Sayler , a newly minted college grad with a background in screenprinting, and a perusal of his Winn Perry blog (linked above) demonstrates great, gentlemanly taste as he records merchandise as it arrives for the store, which he estimates will be open the first or second week of August. A sampling:
Science & Sons Phonophone IIs (which "exploit the virtues of horn acoustics to boost the audio output of standard earphones to up to 55 decibles," not to mention look really cool:
Baxter of California grooming products:

Duncan Quinn accessories, such as glass cuff links:

and ties:

The store is also teaming up with Duchess, who will be conducting the customer service end of their custom tailoring business out of the store, and have also created the Viceroy Collection as an off-the-rack store exclusive. (Sayler is also in talks with Pinkham Millinery and Hazel Cox.)

The store promises to be a great addition to Portland's menswear options, classy but not uptight. Peep the blog for tons more on what's to come, from more beautiful ties (and suspeners and bowties) to apparel from Obedient Sons to traditionally made British shoes from Grenson to Italian Seize sur Vingt shirts.
When Tacee Webb's daughter Palace was turned away from the Rock 'n' Roll Camp for girls due to an overload of applicants, Webb ended up starting a camp of her own, this time catering to one of her daughter's other interests: fashion design. Thus, Fashion Design Camp was born. As I type this, the campers--aged 8-16--are on Day One of their instruction, and over the course of this week they will have developed a portfolio of their designs, including a logo, one of which they will model themselves at a fashion show this Friday alongside established local designers Holly Stalder, Kate Towers, ElizaBeth Rohloff, Luxury Jones, Frocky Jack Morgan, and more, including special guest Jeffrey Sebelia, all working around a fairytale theme. The addition of LA designer Sebelia is a nice segue into the Camp's inaugural session in LA next week, and Tacee hints that other cities have been calling as well. Care to relive Sebelia's Project Runway victory? Have at it:
In the meantime, pick up the tix for Friday's show to see the best of both generations. It's at the Melody Ballroom (615 SE Alder), 7 pm, $3-12.
August's First Friday on E Burnside (a mere week from today) is setting out to be a good one: in addition to the debut of Sword + Fern as the newest tenant in the 811 building, REDUX is hosting an art opening for recent NYC refugee Jesse Utt:

Not just a painter, Utt also makes jewelry and accessories under the name Zachary Pryor (a few name droppings: they've been on the pages of Maxim, Time Out New York, InStyle, worn on episodes of The L Word, One Life to Live, and All My Children, and worn by Avril Lavigne, Mary-Kate Olsen, John Tartaglia, and Shirley Manson), which REDUX is carrying. My favorite favorite pieces are the busy, one-of-a-kind charm earrings:

Stop by next Friday for the opening reception, 6-9:30 pm, at REDUX, 811 E Burnside

Local artist/designer Diana Schreiber is the mastermind behind the charming creations of MOSS. Schreiber uses her love of fiber arts to create an irresistible array of work in a variety of styles and projects. Her amigurumi dolls are playful and bold, while her jewelry line is very feminine and sweet. To learn more about Schreiber and her designs, check out the interview after the jump.
Okay, so when I picked up the print edition this morning, I was completely delighted to see the cover. The Best of 1988 is a brilliant concpet (and, no, I didn't have anything to do with it). Hilarious.
Inspired, I decided to do some research and find the best of fashion, 1988. After a few pages that really missed the mark (hello, leg warmers were totally out by 1984!), I found this piece on the New York Times site. It's an entire article devoted to the fashion year 1988, written in 1988 so you know it's authentic and not nostalgic reimagining. My fave quote:
Everyone needs pockets today, especially in coats.
The Pouf, Christian Lacroix's misunderstood masterpiece
Last night's episode of Project Runway was harrowing. Portland contestant Leanne Marshall 's "green" design did not go over well at all with the judges (including guest judge Natalie Portman):
Yikes. Check out Leanne's dress, along with the competition, here. And in case you were wondering, this leak has now proved officially false. Far from being out, Suede won the challenge. And while you know where my loyalties lie, I totally would wear his dress. Next week, hopefully, there will be less of Leanne crying. Speaking of which, I hope she's been sleeping like a rock since she got home.
Lauren Austin of LaLa VonRiot will make a bag for you. Hand-sewn with fantastic vintage fabrics, every bag she makes is one of a kind.
Her process goes something like this:
You meet, you tell her what you want, you give her an idea of your style and she whips up a bag...for about fifty bucks, depending on the fabric and how complicated the pattern is.

Zebra-print corduroy tote, LaLa Von Riot.
To make an appointment call 608.345.2112
Tonight's second installment of Project Runway: Season 5 involves a "green" challenge, so Leanne Marshall should wipe the floor with her competitors, hailing from the Greenest City in the Country or whatever whoever is calling Portland now. Buuut, judging from the apparent frustration on her face in last week's preview of the new episode (I believe those were tears), I'm not so sure. Also, for whatever it's worth, wild speculation has put her as finishing "low" in this installment.
Whatever the case, The Tanker (4825 SE Hawthorne--it's a new place and the sign is on order, but it's right on the corner of 49th and Hawthorne) has stepped up with its mighty TV screens and DIRECTV to host a public viewing of the show. While most folks at home with cable wont be able to watch it until 9, the magical (and surprisingly confusing) powers of DIRECTV allow the Tanker to play the show at 6, 8, and 10 pm. For the sake of not being too late or too early, 8 pm will be the official Project Runway partay, but it's good to know the bar's willing to flex around your schedule, no? Also: they will be providing noisemakers for you to bleep at the designs you love or hate (you decide the etiquette here), and there will be special drink specials for the PR crowd: Mojitos and Blackberry Presses are $4! See you there!

Leanimal!!!!!!!
It's hard to keep track of the constant shuffle in the 811 E Burnside building, and here's the latest addition (in Suite 114): Sword + Fern joins building mates Redux, Holly Stalder, Stand Up Comedy, Bombshell Vintage, and the Grass Hut gallery. The space will house designer Emily Baker's line of jewelry, the office of her landscape design company, plus "outsider arts exhibitions, organic and wildcrafted botanicals, vintage and limited edition apparel, and home goods." Plus, Ladyhawk, Baker's line of limited batch botanical medicinals spanning everything from lip balm to tinctures! Peep the blog above for an overview of her aesthetic, or stop on by: She's open Tues-Sun, noon-6 pm.

Sword + Fern earrings made with recycled car parts
I love, love the summertime as fiercely as the next sun-deprived Portlander, but a few peeks into what fall has in store still make my pulse quicken a bit in anticipation of the rich textures that the colder months demand. One of this is Reif, the work of Lindsey Reif (you may remember her earlier lines love, ginger and if you're really OG, Lucy in the Sky Designs. Here's a sneak peek for now, items will be in store (locally at Olio United and Foundation Garments) in September. Tell your boys, too. My favorite pieces from fall's collection are the jackets, a slim bomber for the boys and a hooded trench that showcases what youre wearing underneath with its split front hem.


60s Mick meant tailored suits, tight jeans, floral tops, floppy hats, Chelsea boots, shiny loafers, slouchy sweaters, enormous belts. The man could, and did, wear everything. Let that be a lesson to us all--you don't have to settle for one definitive look. As versatile as he was, however, there is a big distinction mid-60s Mick and late 60s Mick. Which do you guys like best?
Mid-60s Mick
This kinder, gentler Mick wore lots of sweaters. The pants were still tight, though.
Late-60s Mick
Even tighter pants, tighter tee, shiny shiny wingtips, and an amazing shag! Rockstar Mick is born.
Another great thing about 60s Mick is that you can easily copy his look.
A slim sweater: Parallel
A tight pair of jeans and a big belt: Local 35
Sweet, shiny wingtips: Hollywood Vintage
Extra-small tees: Tender Loving Empire
It's hard to think about sweaters and cashmere this time of year, and despite the fact that Souchi has long provided Portland with beautiful non-sweater pieces from Jovovich-Hawk and Ports 1961 (not to mention won us over with their cashmere bikinis), cashmere sweaters are what we primarily associate with Souchi and its in-house line of luxury knits. So it would be understandable if you've yet to check out the newly expanded store. Turns out the silver lining of the venerable NW Music Millenium's closing is that it opened up real estate on the rest of the block for stores like Souchi to knock out the back wall and get more space without having to move.

This is what used to be the back wall, now a set of stairs ascending to the dressing room and more racks, soon to be filled with new arrivals. Speaking of which, here is one of the smattering of pieces from Jackson, Johnston & Roe:

Plus one of many styles of surprisingly affordable handbags from Argentina's Helena de Natalio:

As for the Souchi line itself, I (and surely many of you) have gotten used to loving almost everything and being able to afford almost nothing. Luckily they have begun putting out pieces in organic and textured cottons that ring in at a fraction of the pricey cashmere that Souchi built its name on, with prices hovering at around $200. Here's a peek at the fall palette:

And finally, my favorite new way to throw just a bit of Souchi into your wardrobe are these knotty necklaces/scarves, also new:


Who: Jarrett (and Ariel)
Where: Rotture
Cutest piece: This Cassette Playa shirt that Carri Mundane gave me!
Photo by: AM

This Sunday afternoon, the Multnomah County Library is hosting a free crafty seminar at the central branch downtown. In this workshop, learn how to make bead earrings from local lovely crafty lass Susan Beal. Supplies to make one pair of earrings will be provided. More info here.
DIY Crafts: Solo Earrings with Susan Beal, Sunday July 20, 12:30pm-3:30pm, Central Library, U.S. Bank Room, 801 SW 10th Ave., FREE
Handbags have been taking a beating lately. After years of maintaining a reputation as the ultimate luxury accessory (as indicated by its typically extra-huge size and price tag), tastemakers are now busy arguing over which accessory has already replaced the handbag as the It status indicator. In the spring it was all about the It Shoe, with designers like Dries Van Noten (at Halo Shoes, 1425 NE Broadway) and Prada (at Mario's, 833 SW Broadway) pushing artfully floral designs in full embrace of the season's blooms. More recently, the New York Times ran a story on the cover of its style section that revised its stance on what's It: Turns out sunglasses are now the ultimate label-conscious must have. Conveniently, these Its keep finding their way into less expensive item categories. (Don't get me wrong, designer sunglasses can still fetch a pretty penny, but they are in general much less of a financial plunge than the shoes, not to mention the handbags, of top-tier designers.) If things get worse with the economy, next thing you know it will be all about It Key Chains.
In the meantime, no kidding! Those of us on the resourceful end of the budget spectrum have long been beneficiaries of the knack that designer sunglasses seem to have for getting lost and winding up at the thrift store before coming to rest in our grubby little plebian hands. Still, one does aspire to the day when they can experience that new shades smell, or even possess a case for them! If you feel you are ready to take such a plunge, this weekend marks an appropriate opportunity: The Eye Studio (339 NW 9th) is hosting a trunk show in honor of the latest styles from its top-selling Oliver Peoples collection, including the Paul Smith range.

If it's an It you're after, the current season of these lines is a good choice. Popular with celebrities (of course), the collection features lots of retro and oversized shapes, updated to avoid excessive nostalgia. Eye Studio Optician Jaron Smith names the Oliver Peoples Harlot as a favorite, and I must concur with his sense of drama. The large 70s-style frame is attention demanding and comes in a number of luscious colorways, my favorite being a creamy pearl with gold and rose-tinted lenses. So, so sassy. Stop by for pro advice on what shapes work best for you (there are over 1,000 options!), door prizes that include a free pair(!!!!), plus hors d'oeuvres and drinks to lubricate the process. Be sure to visit the-eyestudio.com/news.htm for a coupon to boot. Print out the page for $50 off a complete pair of prescription eyeglasses or $30 off any pair of sunglasses. Just please don't sit on them. (The Eye Studio, 339 NW 9th, Sat July 19, 11 am-4 pm)

Did you catch lat night's first episode of Project Runway? If not, don't worry: Portlander Leanne Marshall did great! She made it through her challenge with flying colors. Check out the first part of the show introducing the competitors, when Leanne talks about the other designers underestimating her because she's coming from PDX. Leanne, kick their asses.
But you can forget about this one:
And WTF with the preview for next week? Is she crying??!!
Got cable? Yeah, me neither, but there is no way I am going to miss Leanne Marshall on Project Runway tonight. Luckily, The Tanker (4825 SE Hawthorne) has stepped up with their cable equipped big screen TV to host the weekly airing of the show! Be there by 9 pm sharp (earlier if you want to catch the happy hour that goes 'til 8)! You need to be checking out more new bars anyway!

Seems like every time I whine about there not being a lot of shoe designers, one comes crawling out of the woodwork. This time it's Jeff Mandel's ExIT Shoes, a one-man operation of handmade shoes in inner southeast Portland. Mandel is no joke:

It looks like most of his work is men's shoes, but he has made a couple forays into women's shoes as well:


And he recently made his first pair of bike shoes:

Mandel is serious about fit. He has his clients wear a pair of trial shoes for a week to make sure the fit is working correctly before making the actual order, and the entire process can take more than a month. They are $800 a pair (though you only have to come up with half of that up front), but they will be made to fit you perfectly and can last up to 20 years.
Wow! Congrats to Leanne Marshall of Leanimal (and former Merc graphic designer), who was just announced as a contender on the new season of Project Runway! I just spoke with her briefly, but she needs to have a handler from Bravo on the line before I can ask any real questions. I'll update this post as soon as we're done on the phone!
The season debuts tomorrow at 9 pm on Bravo!
UPDATE! (Got her on the horn w/Bravo handler listening in). Check after the break for a Q&A!
Did you know that shimmery nail polish is made with fish scales? I did not, but the new owners of Chameleon Salon (7015 N Greeley), Shannen Knight and Madelyn Zappey, are all over it, with vegan versions of salon treatments like salt scrubs and vegan manicures (the shimmer comes from sea shells). The salon has been there for 40 years, but Knight and Zappey have revamped it and added additional services like facials and waxing, and plan to expand to add massage and tanning in the future. Vegan tanning, one can assume.
