Last Thursday's debut of the fall/winter collections of like minded Portlanders Liza Rietz and Emily Ryan promised an emphasis on ready to wear looks, but that didn't mean that what they delivered wasn't thought provoking, and they certainly did not abandon the sculptural elements for which they are known. Though they have been doing shows together for some five years, allied by a complimentary modernity in their designs, they didn't actually see the pieces from each other's collections until the night prior to the show this time, though you wouldn't know it in the evidence of a strong Japanese influence that threaded through both designers' looks--Ryan's fascination came from a trip to Japan early this year, while Liza came around to the aesthetic less consciously, when she found herself on a design path that began to remind her of kimonos, and she took the opportunity to explore it more deeply.

Emily Ryan and Liza Rietz

See all the photos after the jump, and if you see something you like, mark your calendars for October 12, when Ryan and Rietz are holding a trunk show together with pieces from these collections available as samples, off the rack, and custom, as well as some limited overstock from past seasons. The event will also be in celebration of Rietz's one-year anniversary at 2305 NW Savier, where for the past year she and fellow designer John Blasioli of a broken spoke have produced and sold their designs. It's also a relaunch of sorts--Blasioli is stepping out of the business, which will henceforth be known as simply: Liza Rietz. Ryan and Rietz are also toying with the possibility of launching a limited edition collaborative line together in the future--imagine the possibilities...

All photos by Minh Tran!

Ryan kicked off the show with a gathered shift dress that lived up to her emphasis on easy-to-wear pieces with artistic detail:

I could have ripped this pleated wrapped jumper off the back of model Ruth Radelet right then and there:

The tent dress kicked off a series of pieces that incorporated wide scalloped embellishments:

Inspired by the unusual, experimental pieces she saw on the streets of Japan, Ryan offered some intriguingly off-the-grid ideas, like this under wrap skirt, which is essentially a long loose variation on the "Hammer pants" of yore. It took a couple days of thinking on it, but this look really grew on me.

This rather astonishing collar was made using a Gocco:

The 20s played an influence into some of the ladylike silhouettes on display:

A legging version of the Hammer pants, along with a quintessential Emily Ryan tunic:

Another foray into prints, a previously uncharted territory for Ryan, this time with roses, ruffles, and a hood:

Nature meets sci-fi in this stuffed applique (another Ryan first):

Rietz named this gold, cowl-skirted opener as one of her favorites of the new pieces. The ability to straddle the line of fitted and flattering, yet experimenting with volume was apparent throughout the new looks:

The first of two dresses that featured long pleated runners, this piece continues the kimono sleeves that began to appear in Rietz's designs last season:

Another piece taken steps further this season is the rectangle jacket, made using a simple shape that comes to life on the body, here rendered in a warm faux fur, and paired with a batwing tunic with knotted detail in the collar:

A strong example of Rietz's ability to mix fit with volume, the pockets on this dress hit low enough to avoid creating a too-bulky effect:

The showstopper:

A subtler, sleeveless variation on the runner dress:

This delicate, cascading piece would make an excellent and slightly unexpected holiday party dress:

This is actually separates, worn with a knotted necklace that would add little something to just about anything:

Rietz is a pro at using long lengths and draping without treading into matronly zones. The look is sharp and modern, yet with a romantic element: