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Monday, May 11, 2009

More John Blasioli!

Posted by Brett Glass on Mon, May 11, 2009 at 10:43 AM

When I asked my guy friends what they liked about the Forecast show, nearly every one mentioned the high-waisted suspender pants from John Blasioli.
208d/1242066092-blasioli-high-pants.jpg
Photo by Minh Tran

I completely understand, they're clean yet creative, stand out on a runway but look wearable. What spoke to me me backstage, though, (a pretty big feat considering how much was going on) was this soft wool topcoat. The detail is simple and beautifully done.
1e41/1242066354-blasioli-topcoat.jpg
Photo by Minh Tran

I'm really excited about this collection (as well as the other new menswear lines that showed at Forecast, Smith & Bybee, Hunt & Gather, La Merde and jury-selected Adam Andreas) but since John shut down his former label / storefront A Broken Spoke a few months ago, I had no idea where to buy. John's answers, a little more about this colleciton, detail shots and how Young Guns2 figures into everything after the jump.

John Blasioli in his eastside studio:
097f/1242068034-jb_studio.jpg

So what happened to A Broken Spoke?
I wanted a new beginning—a break. I felt overworked...and it wasn't going in the direction I wanted it to. I'd gotten away from producing lines, I was doing a lot of custom work which was fun but not what I wanted. So I took a few months off. I didn't sew at all, but kept sketching.

How is John Blasioli different from A Broken Spoke?
Well...I could hide behind A Broken Spoke a little. By using my own name, it feels a little more serious. And in look I think it's more adult, too.

You're using a lot of khaki in this collection.
I'm half joking, half serious when I say that my inspiration was Young Guns 2. Western, clean/dirty, kind of open....

A John Blasioli jacket:
b49b/1242068918-jb_jacket.jpg

What do you mean by open?
You can throw it on and wear it relatively easy. You can wear it consistently, daily. I tend to like a uniform look. Things that stand out, but...nobody will know if you wear the same pants for seven days straight. Except maybe the high-waisted pants.

So no more custom work. Are you going to sell wholesale to stores?
In a very limited way. I'm going to try and push my set sizes, but not do a big wholesale push. Pam at Frances May said she was interested in carrying the line. I'm still going to produce in-house, I've got friends who sew and I've got a lot of space and sewing machines. Originally I was going to try and become a big wholesale entity, but that doesn't really make sense, especially with so many stores closing. But my friend Fritz Mesenbrink and I are going to do an accessories line called Thanks that will be more wholesale. It's easier to put together a bunch of suspenders than it is a bunch of jackets.

The studio:
fbba/1242069333-jb_view.jpg

When will the line be ready?
August for stores. But earlier on my website. It's a fall collection, but people shop globally now so seasons don't matter as much. I'm going to be making two more jackets and more pants. Maybe not as high-waisted, not as dramatic, but still playing with that idea.

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