Wildfang has dropped their newest lookbook and it's pretty rad. The vibe is 1990's Marc Jacobs meets Where the Wild Things Are. Shot on location on Portland’s Sauvie Island, 16 Wildfangs roam the forest and make it their playground. The models are all natives of Portland, and true Wildfangs from models to tastemakers and designers.
The Wildfang Club Collection embodies the nature of a secret society. The brand presents the Club’s crest, featured on embroidered sweatshirts, tees, and tanks. The crest encapsulates the Wildfang logo as well as the brand’s wolf mascot in a modern, classic emblem.
“Inside all of us is a Wildfang. We are punks and preps, mavens and mavericks. But Wildfang is at our core” says Wildfang’s Creative Director Taralyn Thuot. “It bonds us together in a shared spirit and attitude. For the launch of our fall collection, we wanted to show the breadth and diversity of the Wildfang Club.”
Photographer: Nicholas Peter Wilson; Supporting Photographer: Lindsay Beaumont
Stylist Lead: Taralyn Thuot
Assistants: Tashina Hill, Grace Kildare
Models:Emily Mills, Salina Bradford, Lana Nyman, Sarah McNie, Olivia Chouinard
Supporting: Alyse McNeil, Amy Jo Williams, Crystal Geller, Katie Beasley, Jessica Ilahaole, Noelle Sosaya, Rachael Andreas, Sabrina Blatt, Sasha Clyde, Skye Sengelmann, Sugar Ambrosio
See more photos after the jump.
To be clear, I do not want fall to come. Every summer has to be ripped from my grasp, and I get really defensive at this time of year, when people start every other sentence with some allusion to summer's end even as they're sweating through their tank top. Then I usually remain in cozy denial until Thanksgiving, or at least Halloween. That being said, fall clothes are the only good thing about the season changing, and there are two things that came up on the calendar recently that stir the desire for time to actually pass:
On September 19, Mercantile is hosting the debut of the Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen, a line of womenswear made from the wool "grown" on Oregon's Imperial Stock Ranch. If you've visited the Fashioning Cascadia exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Craft, you've had the chance to see a few of the truly gorgeous pieces from it.
Then, on October 1, and again at MoCC, which really has become something of a second home for Portland's fashion community, it seems, Adam Arnold—who's back to doing regular seasonal shows, it would seem—is debuting his work for fall, which will no doubt include more wool, offbeat patterns, and things to add to my growing wish list. As usual, it's free, but you have to register. I'd suggest doing so soonish to be safe, since people come out for Adam Arnold shows.
So cheer up, sun worshipers.
Animal Traffic will be marking down merchandise this weekend at both locations on both new and vintage goods, including clothing, shoes, and accessories. They're carrying brands like Hye Park and Lune, Woolrich White Label, Freenote Cloth, and more.
Animal Traffic is at 4000 N Mississippi Ave. and in downtown at 429 SW 10th Ave. The sale runs from Saturday, August 30th through Monday, September 1st. Check out the Animal Traffic website for more details.
Fade to Light played to a typically packed Crystal Ballroom last week, to a healthy crowd of fashion insiders, business folk, and fans who just like a good show. As one of the most popular fashion events in town, it seems like each season F2L draws more excitement and anticipation, and this time around they did not disappoint. As usual, there was a diverse roster of new and returning designers, as well as a few established names who were new to the format, which has each participant include a video element to their presentation, giving the audience a peek into their creative process.
The first collection to show was Elephant Room, an experimental collaboration between four Art Institute students. They opened with a video montage of the clothing, as one of the designers spoke with evangelical zeal about the virtues of fashion as an art form ("Fashion is not an industry, it is an expression... My body is a celebration, I am a celebration..." etc). The designers showed a series of dramatic gowns in a striking color palate of black, white and yellow, with an emphasis on architecture and removable pieces—like a skirt that zipped off to make the dress cocktail length. There were some interesting ideas in this collection, and the construction was great, but it sort of left me wanting more. There were only three looks total, and I didn't really feel like there was a clear point of view.
Mag-Big opened with a somewhat melancholic video of a girl playing on the beach in a pretty, breezy dress. This seemingly contradictory theme was reflected in the clothes, which were sort of fun-in-the-sun with a slightly dark edge. Mag-Big specializes in stylish but super unfussy pieces, which can sometimes be a challenge to translate into a compelling runway show, but they pulled it off with lots of sexy sheers and pretty floral prints.
You can't hardly turn around in this city anymore without bumping into some sort of flea/open air/maker market. So who are all these vendor people, anyway? Well, here's one, our submission for lookbook of the day: Lyon Falls, AKA "treasure hunting power couple" Jessica Comfort and Jevon LaBar. Find them at the Grand Marketplace Flea (next one: September 13), Insta, and in these photos featuring jewelry by Hazel Cox.
Vintalier announced recently that they're accumulating a massive haul of closeout inventory from another local shop. The items include a full rack of Opening Ceremony, shoes by Samantha Pleet, Luxury Rebel, Sass & Bide, Grey City and others. For men, there will be heritage brands like Post Overalls, Carters, and selvage denim. The said swag will be so large that it will take up half the shop, so it must be good stuff for them to rearrange their space to bring it in. They'll be putting away half their stock too to fit it all. There are hundreds of pairs of shoes. These items will be on sale for up to 70% off the original price and will only be available in the shop for 10 days.
This sounds like a sale to attend right away if you can.
Vintalier 412 NW 13th
August 29th-September 7th
I discovered Rogue:Minx while recruiting designers this summer for the Designer Flea at Lot 13 on Mississippi. The ambitious designer behind this fairly obscure brand is Anna Marie Cooper; a high spirited, business minded creative force who is equally easy to hang with. Her personal style highly reflects her design aesthetic which expresses both grungy-rock coolness as well as flattering girly details. I was immediately drawn to her style. Each and every piece of the many available in her line incorporates a special detail with its own personality, and the entire line is cohesive (as opposed to just individual collections). The clothing is very polished and well thought out; inventive and highly marketable at the same time. Her pieces are within reach for local fashion lovers at an affordable price-point (tops and skirts generally between $70-$100).
Anna did indeed suffer through the heat at the Designer Flea at the Mississippi Street Fair along with some other highly respectable local designers (thanks again to all of you for conducting that experiment with us!) She also represented her label at the first ever Urban Air Market in Portland and the Renegade Craft Fair just recently. She'll also be at Portland Fashion Week's presentation of Fashion on The Square September 5th-7th. We caught up at the Lost & Found a couple of weeks back to discuss what it entails being an emerging designer in Portland and tips on the local trade, among other things.
Mercury: What is your background? Where are you from, what's your story?
Anna: I'm originally from Arkansas, so I spent the first part of my life adrift in humidity, thunderstorms, and lightning bugs. I moved here in high school, and it was probably the best thing that ever happened to me. I was a bit of an oddity in the South, and I seem to blend in a little better here. I have moved around quite a bit since then trying to find other potential places to call home, but nothing has been as good a fit for me. I re-settled here again three years ago, and I plan to stay as long as I can.
When did you start designing clothing?
I started sewing about ten years ago, and managed to put myself through college designing and sewing questionable party clothes. When I graduated and it came time to find a real job and I realized I would rather just stay home and keep sewing. I've been pretty successful selling direct to customers for a few years now via Etsy, but I didn't really become serious about designing until pretty recently. I'm finally getting to a place that I am happy with aesthetically, and I think my knowledge is finally at a point where I can transform my hobby into a profession.
What do you love? What inspires you?
I am inspired by so many things it is hard to narrow it down into a few bullet points. I'm drawn to minimalism with it's clean lines, simple shapes, and interesting textures. I also really love vintage clothes and thrifting. My personal style shifts constantly, so you might find me wearing something super feminine one day, and something tomboyish or minimal the next. The result is that my designs are usually pulled in several different directions. There are so many things that I want and love to make, the hardest thing is to decide what is next.
What do you listen to while you're working (designing, sewing, pattern-making etc.) ?
I tend to shift through phases of listening entirely to music or entirely to pod casts. Right now I'm in the depths of a pod cast phase. There are quite a few that I am addicted to at this point such as Risk! Hardcore History, and Stuff You Should Know among others. Pretty much anything that enables me to learn while working will keep me entertained; Although, I am definitely not above setting up my tablet and binge watching Toddlers in Tiaras or Drag Race. I am hoping the variety is good for my brain.
What do you hope to be doing in 5 years? What is your ultimate dream for your design career?
Naturally I hope to expand and refine my design work further in that time. I have no intentions of leaving the Portland area, and I really want to continue producing my garments here in-state. I really love the culture here, and I want to do what I can to support the local clothing industry. Eventually I would also like to do more than just design. I would love to find a way to help support other American based makers and designers out there, whether that means buying wholesale from them, by promoting them, or both.
Do you have anything exciting in the works that we can expect to see soon?
Right now I am switching my focus to accessories and jewelry. I have had a few ideas kicking around in my head now for a year that I would like to get out. Some of them involve experimenting with 3-D printing which I have been itching to start using. After that, I will be back to designing more clothes and really filling out my website. So far I am avoiding the churn of releasing spring/summer and fall/winter collections. Instead, I plan to release new items consistently as I go along. The goal is to be able to show customers something new on a fairly frequent basis, and the next year should show my store filling up with new designs, lookbooks, and collaborations with other artists I know.
The universally adored Fade to Light fashion show is happening tonight. Distinguishing itself as a runway event that not only debuts new apparel collections, it also features short films and other impromptu surprises devised by the designers to engage the audience. Fashion shows are a ton of work, so it really says something that designers don't shy away from the added work. In fact, Fade to Light—now in its second year as a semi-annual event—has some of the best designer retention in town. As in the case of Bryce Black, who's become a steady fixture on F2L lineups and has been responsible for some of the most unforgettable moments in the show's history.
So, since the Sold Out column I wrote up for the show won't hit the 'nets for another couple hours, here's a visual reminder in the form of a recent editorial shot by Jaycob Desrosiers featuring Black's latest S/S '14 collection.
How about some eye candy for you to feast on today? The Fall/Winter 2014 Lookbook from Brady Lange is now online—as well as pieces from the collection for you to shop. I love the graphic styling and treatment of these photos with their cheeky drama/romance vibe, mixed with a little nostalgia of the high school yearbook I always wished I had.
If you saw Brady's showing at Portland Fashion Week earlier this year, you'll recognize some of his standout pieces including his Cat Pants and Catnip Jumpsuit. To quote Brady, "Kitty Motos for everyone!"
See more of the lookbook after the jump.
Glitz, glam, and sweaty people encompassed night two of Style in the Pearl. A new set of boutiques were ready to show off their fall goodies despite the heat, and it felt like a bigger crowd turned out to enjoy the evening's event than the first night. While the show was strong overall, I did feel like a few more summer-esque looks snuck onto the runway than I was expecting.
Get the full recap after the jump.
Who said designers get to have all the fun when it comes to fashion shows? For the second annual Style in the Pearl, boutiques got in on the runway action and gave us a preview of fall trends and styles you'll be wearing/lusting after in a few short months.
Night one of the two-day event was sizzling—literally and figuratively. Temperatures rose as stylish fashion fans filed into the Real Big Video venue in the Pearl District. A raised runway was front and center, and the bar was packed with booze to help keep you cool. The audience felt a little light at first, but once the show started everyone packed in to get the best views and the vibe started to pick up. Props to Portland Monthly's Eden Dawn who was the emcee for the night. She rocked a killer jumpsuit from Vintalier that kicked the night off perfectly.
Click through to read the full recap and see the looks!
After the summer kicked off with both a City Club forum dedicated to stoking the economic development of Portland's independent fashion industry and a months-long regional fashion exhibit at the Museum of Contemporary Craft, it's been a year of unprecedented attention for the local industry. I've personally been attending the meetings of a committee that formed in the wake of the City Club event, a nice bit of follow-through from an influential organization.
It seems other things are also afoot: Those who track the whereabouts of PINO's Crispin Argento (I won't ask) may have noticed that the necktie designer and intrepid networker hasn't been spending much time here in Portland. Turns out he's been spending the last six months traversing the country to lay the groundwork for something called the Portland Apparel Lab:
The Portland Apparel Lab (PAL) is a full service member-supported apparel and lifestyle business accelerator providing early stage strategic and operational support and training to entrepreneurs in launching and cultivating the lifestyle businesses of tomorrow. PAL is committed to supporting the next generation of apparel and accessories designers in Portland.
PAL advises and guides the business end of apparel and accessory ventures from concept exploration and business planning through product development, production and marketing stages under three primary service divisions: Strategize, Design and Activate. In addition, PAL oversees Market, a full-service sales and showroom division, and Grow (Portland Designer Fund), a grant, loan and equity placement program for high-growth potential lifestyle brands in need of start-up capital.
PAL provides a professional creative collaborative environment with streamlined and affordable access to services, resources, programs and valued industry relationships for its members to successfully launch, grow and become thriving lifestyle businesses.
I promised Argento I wouldn't get too far into any of the details he gave me over our epic lunch meeting until he's able to furnish me with all the propers in writing. The scope of the thing is huge, and there is quite a bit to explain. Argento is planning to give his first public presentation of the model on September 10 at MoCC (appropriately enough), though there will probably be several such opportunities for people to ask questions and for Argento to determine whether there is enough designer interest to make this thing viable.
There is a lot of fatigue in Portland's fashion community when it comes to conversations and attempts to do something that somehow galvanizes the talent here and marries it with the resources and infrastructure needed to grow middle class (and higher) jobs within the city's apparel sector. (I suffer from it too.) But if Argento can deliver what he thinks he can... well, it just might work this time, though it will ultimately rely on the interest of local designers. If you're in the Portland industry and have ever complained about aspects of your production, materials sourcing, business guidance, and the sheer cost of producing and marketing a collection, etc, you should at least hear him out.
On a slightly tangential note: One of the other things I've become involved with of late is a series of Friday lunches and conversations about local manufacturing called Lunch Wagon at ADX. It's still really new, but so far I've moderated discussions with people who directly manufacture products as well as those who incubate them—it's not at all limited to fashion, but has included electronics, food, and beyond. Tomorrow I'll be talking to a bicycle manufacturer who is turning the process on its ear, for instance. The theme that's quickly emerging is that, across industries, current modes of manufacturing aren't working anymore, and people are inventing new models that are better adapted to an evolving set of tools and priorities. It's interesting conversation, of course, but it also dovetails nicely with what Argento is trying to do in an apparel-specific context. (Directly fashion related: The Portland Garment Factory will be the guest for the August 22 edition).
Anyway, what I'm trying to say is that it's been refreshingly heartening to witness people being *successfully* proactive about changing the way things work in their respective sectors in the face of broken systems, I'd love to see the same thing happen in meaningful ways within a community I've invested so much of my own work and enthusiasm in, and I think we can all learn a lot from each other.
Adam Arnold is having another studio sale this Saturday from 10am-6pm. "One can expect many men's and women's iconic and experimental pieces. Really everything from suit jackets to swimsuits. And snooks!" An A.A. swimsuit sounds pretty righteous! Visiting his studio means a somewhat intimate and very welcoming environment where you'll most likely have an intelligent conversation with the designer while you admire and try on the pieces. This type of thing doesn't happen very often (One usually has to schedule an appointment and the last invitation of this sort was extended in January), so check it out.
I recently got a chance to check out Kyoto, a fairly new menswear boutique and art gallery on 6th and Glisan in Old Town. The store draws inspiration—as you might gather from the name—from Japanese style, with an emphasis on high-end streetwear. Not exactly an untapped market, but Kyoto distinguishes itself by carrying brands and items that can't be found anywhere else in Portland, mixed in with a few local designer pieces. The general vibe is laid back but swagger-y, with unique, eye catching pieces like gold pants by Benny Gold, subtle floral printed shirts and shorts by Wolf & Man, and an impressive collection of multi-colored, limited edition Nikes. The gallery section of the store features striking, street inspired pieces by local artists like Beth Myrick and Brittany Osland.
Owner James Boyd is an industry veteran who previously ran a streetwear line called Prototype. He says opening the store has been a long term goal, but he "didn't think anyone would want it," due to the struggling economy. This year though, after shuttering Prototype's doors and selling the name to Microsoft, he decided the time was right to pursue this dream.
Check out some of the goods below:
"Our looks are inspired by 90's movies and Marceline the Vampire Queen (from Adventure Time)." -Veronica (on left) and Alisa (on right)
"I like a lot of Australian designers. I just dress to be free and comfortable." -Phoenix
"I like whatever catches my eye and is cheap!."-Haley
"I like to dress as a combination of oppressed 50's housewife and liberated 70's bohemian." -Elisabeth
Artist and designer Haley Ann will be taking over Yo Vintage! for the entire month of August. This Thursday they're having a celebration/sale to debut her pieces that are being installed. BLTN and Rill Rill are bringing some of their jewelry over to the party too, so arrive prepared to ooh (yeah) and aah and get your hands on some fantastic goods.
413 SW 13th Ave.
Thursday, August 7th 6-9pm
This is it: the apex of summer. Today's lookbook highlight comes from one of Portland's vintage grande dames, Xtabay, whose "American Beauty" shoot is flooded with crimson roses, ladylike frocks, and very responsibly SPF'd pale skin.
If you like alpacas, clothing, art, bugs, felting, and... uh, environmental responsibility, You should take advantage of the current residency Adrienne Antonson is currently absorbing herself with over at the Museum of Contemporary Craft. I spoke to her for my column this week, and learned a few things I really, really like about her: 1) She makes perfect human-hair sculptures of bugs. 2) She used to live on an alpaca farm. 3) Her attitude toward creating her clothing line, STATE, in a responsible manner is that, "If I'm bringing new objects into the world, I want them to be an improvement." 4) She's fearless about growing an apparel line that doesn't conform to the norms of the retail hustle ("The typical fashion calendar has never clicked with me.") 5) She made herself this outfit yesterday:
Antonson's artist talk is this evening at 6:30 pm at the museum and totally free to check out. This whole series of residencies and lectures has been stimulating enough to forfeit a summer evening for, and I'm particularly excited for this one. Maybe I'll see ya there.
Today's eye candy comes from Machus, which has cornered Portland's market for a certain brand of modern casual menswear that—and I mean this in the best way—involves a lot of very fancy sweatpants and almost nothing in the way of color. The store recently added its own in-house line of basics to complement this aesthetic, called Machus Private Label, which is the subject of this summer lookbook shot by proprietor Justin Machus himself, in the moody bowels of Lower Eastside Industrial.
We mentioned before that the Urban Air Market is paying us a visit, so get ready for the first ever installment in Portland. The San Fransisco based event is bringing in their guns to host an amazing array of both emerging and established designers from Portland alongside a few SF vendors. The focus is on sustainable design, as in locally manufactured, handmade by the designers themselves, or at least made in the US. Not only will there be a bounty of local creative talent, but you can chill at the beer garden and sip a few, listen to live music throughout the day(s), admire some art installations by Ivan McLean and Blake Hudson and eat satisfying food. We got our hands on the list of vendors (so far, they're still adding people) and it's certainly a righteous group.
Urban Air Market-Portland
2 Day Event: Saturday, August 2nd and Sunday, August 3rd
11 am-6 pm at Zidell Yards in South Waterfront
If it so happens that you would like to be a part of this event, they are still looking to fill some volunteer spaces, and there are perks: 21+ volunteers will get a PDX staff tote bag, an Urban Air Market T-shirt, and a drink ticket for the beer garden in exchange for a couple of hours of on-site help. More info here. If you just want to go and shop and get to know the vendors a little better, you can RSVP here. The first 150 people to RSVP will receive a good sized free tote bag that can be picked up at the info. booth upon arrival.
FashioNXT is probably the most prominent fashion show in Portland currently. Fielding designers locally, nationally, and even internationally, it draws a lot of attention and has helped emerging designers make their debut on a high-end runway. In August, emerging designers will get another opportunity to audition their brand to be a part of the upcoming show in October. The auditions will take place on August 10 in front of a promising panel of judges including Eden Dawn, Michelle Lesniak, Anne Bocci, and our very own managing editor here at the Mercury, the lovely Marjorie Skinner [I'll actually be camping on the 10th but will be there for the second round and for the final show judging, and thanks for calling me "lovely"!—Ed.], among other fashion buyers, designers and editors from the region.
There is a small fee to enter the audition, and if you end up being one of the designers that makes it to the runway in October there's a bigger fee, but the prize package for the winner and the exposure designers receive from walking the FashioNXT runway seems worth the investment. Previous shows have included Michael Costello (Beyonce is a huge fan!), Seth Aaron, Pendleton's The Portland Collection, Michelle Lesniak, Lift Label, and last year's emerging designer winner, Amy Sim. So yeah, you'd be sharing the stage with some prominent and talented designers. Period. For full details and qualifications click here.
Sunday August 10th at 2pm
Choose Local Media, 1801 NW Upshur St #660
It seems the many facets of David Lynch's talent are never ending. In his latest venture, he has co-designed a capsule collection of women's sportswear for the company Live the Process. Co-designed with model Alyssa Miller, the collection features bras, leggings, shorts, and T-shirts and is available in a limited edition floral print. Part of the proceeds benefit the David Lynch Foundation, which is dedicated to teaching meditation to young victims of post-traumatic stress disorder and abuse.
On a related note, if you want to support something local, you should add your dollars to the possible screening of the David Lynch directed film Fire Walk with Me at Hollywood Theater on August 1. It's part of their This is Your Film series and they just need 30 more paid tickets to make it happen. Seriously, who doesn't want to see Laura Palmer drinking tiny bottles of booze and doing blow by herself in her bedroom on the big screen?
Source: The Independent
There is something charming about a dress shop stationed inside an iconic 1965 Bristol Lodekka double decker bus. Specializing in vintage and modern clothing for men, women, and kids, Lodekka and has been parked on N Williams since 2010. But as foot traffic at their current location began decreasing, the shop's owner, Erin Sutherland, knew she either needed to close the shop or move it—an obvious perk to having a mobile storefront.
Sutherland will be moving her shop to the brand new Tidbit Food Farm and Garden space on SE Division and 28th Place in mid-August. Tidbit is the brainchild of Aaron Blake and Christina Davis of local design-build firm reworks, which is responsible for the Trifecta Tavern & Bakery space, as well as both Bollywood Theater locations. The new 15,000-square-foot pod will feature 16 food carts, a plant nursery, a beer garden, and covered seating. Lodekka will be situated next to the plant nursery in order to create a small retail section.
Portland's summer of fashion rages on in part thanks to the Museum of Contemporary Craft's Fashioning Cascadia (up through Oct 11), and while Portland's own Cassie Ridgway's residency at the exhibit's "Safehouse" runs through this Saturday, I'm also looking ahead to the next visitor, Adrienne Antonson.
Antonson went from Charleston to Washington's Vashon Island (where she worked and lived at an alpaca farm) to Seattle to New York City, where she pursued work as a sculpture artist who mostly worked with human hair, and developed the State line of clothing, through which she coined the term "farm-to-hanger," which is used to describe a number of clothing lines now, including Oregon's own Imperial Collection.
For her time in Portland she'll be working on Fully Clothed, a project that "makes use of entirely salvaged garments and textiles to create an entire wardrobe" and presenting a (free) lecture at the museum on Thurs, July 31 at 6:30 pm. In the meantime I've been filling up on the eye candy of her past work, from her curious, delicate sculpture work to her clothing design, which runs the gamut from cute printed "britches" and other intimates to the types of big-pocketed smocks that seem to be on many designers' minds right now.
Here is a new lookbook from local designer (and MOD contributor), Katie Guinn that really captures the feeling of summer in Portland. Guinn's designs incorporate vintage and new fabrics into contemporary pieces with an eclectic edge. This collection is available online or you can check out her pieces in person at Haunt and Mag-Big. Guinn will also be showing her collection on the runway at the upcoming fashion event, Alley 33.
See the full lookbook after the jump.
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