As mentioned, and as you've surely discovered if you ambled down SE Hawthorne sometime this summer in search of some heat-quenching Cold Stone Creamery, Imelda's and Louie's has turned its former neighbor into an expansion of the "Louie's" end as well as space for their online sales operations, meaning an expanded range for everyone. After a couple months of remodeling, which they faithfully documented on their Facebook page, the door to the new shop swung open on Friday.
As promised, official lookbook photos of Duchess' new dabble in off-the-rack menswear, and its first seasonally inspired collection for Fall/Winter '12 have been posted. Shot by Studio Sundell, and modeled by PINO designer and instigator Crispin Argento and musician/illustrator/filmmaker/animator/vintage poster restorer Jason Leonard, you can set the rest here.
Yesterday evening I had the privilege of attending a little soiree at Duchess, where they previewed their men's suiting looks for Fall. It's a bit of experiment for them. Historically they've stuck to custom orders from their selection of vintage-inspired designs, but this season they decided to try doing more off the rack styles. They're also poised to launch the first of their era-specific collections, a Victorian inspired batch that's due out next month.
I've always felt like Portland has a serious dearth of cool and interesting men's shoes (as in not Nikes or Adidas), so I was exited to find out that Manifeso is expanding their selection with three new sneaker styles from Tsubo, Camper and Tretorn. All three of these styles are timeless and super versatile. My personal favorites are the Camper K3's, a low-top suede style (love suede) that can be dressed down or dressed up (a little), and can be worn any season. Check them out:
Once again we're gonna force you to look at heavy Fall clothes for the cold and rain that's no doubt just around the corner. This time it's Woolrich Woolen Mill's collection at Frances May. The collection is a project by outerwear company Woolrich, that "stems from the passion of rediscovery of the American manufacturing tradition," and is produced completely domestically. The collection has the old world, classic Americana aesthetic that one would expect, but still feels really modern. The pieces at Frances May have actually been in the store since the 15th, and it's now actually conceivable that one could bear to try them on. Check it out:
Last week we got an eyeful of the increasingly sophisticated wardrobe offerings from Bridge & Burn, which started as simply a line of locally designed jackets, for women. Now, if you are psychologically equipped to contemplate the inevitable arrival of fall, check out the whole collection:
Solestruck has been slowly upping their men's selection for a while, and now that they have a men's buyer they have a wide array of styles for the guys to choose from. Obviously the next step was to make a lookbook devoted just to them and Home Boy, photographed by Lavenda Memory, shows looks that are totally wearable by any guy, no matter what his style may be. Below are my favorite shots, and to view the Home Boy Lookbook in it's entirety go here.
The menswear trend I'm most looking forward to this fall is the tailored jacket. No I'm not talking about formal Zegna blazers to be worn with your three-piece suit. This is Portland after all, and pretty much the only occasions we have for dressing up like that here are weddings and funerals, or if we've been arrested and have to go to court. I'm talking about casual yet sleek, super-streamlined jackets that have been showing up all over the runways. These jackets can go with pretty much everything, and will never go out of style. Here are some of my favorites that are available right now from local retailers:
Menswear label Jack Spade is setting up shop in Portland on August 3, in a space on 304 NW 11th Ave. The store will carry an assortment of the classic, utility-based accessories and clothing that the brand is known for. While they are certainly on the higher end of the price spectrum, Jack Spade's simple but stylish aesthetic and functional, high-quality design ethos should make them a pretty good fit for Portland. I know I'll be browsing their signature canvas and waxed-cotton messenger bags (at least as soon as they have a sample sale).
When I was a design student, and soon thereafter an independent designer trying to make it with my own label, I would become livid if I heard of yet another celebrity coming out with their own line. Nowadays I don't really care, and I am not sure if it's because I don't design anymore or if it's because celebrity designers are so commonplace. Actually some of these celebrity designers do put out some great stuff, and if they give hilarious interviews about the fashion industry, well I say let them keep designing. Case in point, Liam Gallagher, celebrity "designer" of Pretty Green, gave an interview recently to Telegraph and it was very refreshing that he admitted that he does not actually design the clothes, as so many other celebrities would lead you to believe. He does approve everything however, and if he doesn't like it "it gets binned." He goes on to say he spends a lot of money on clothes so he knows his shit, whereas other celebrities are just given clothing and probably don't know what they're wearing. He also says he would never use a stylist and, "If someone turned around to me and was like, 'here mate, take that rubbish off that you've worked your b———- off to buy and get this on you…" that he would never do that. (What is this b-word they bleeped out?) Whatever you think about celebrity designers, this interview was quite entertaining, and the clothing put out by Pretty Green is actually pretty cool, even if it is just a re-hash of the clothing the mods wore in the 60s (and really, what isn't a re-hash of something else these days anyway?)
I rarely write about men’s fashion because, let’s be real, I am way too obsessed with platform heels, feathers, and sequins. But I can offer a little bit of advice on what not to wear if you’re looking to graduate to a more polished look:
Put down the cargo shorts. I repeat, put the cargo shorts down. I feel like they are just never going to go away. When I see a bro out rocking those terrible multi-pocketed things I just wonder what is in those pockets and why are there so many? I’m not against guys wearing shorts but just keep the silhouette slim and get the right fit for your frame.
Any kind of shirt that reflects the Ed Hardy design aesthetic is an automatic disqualifier. This means nothing with swirly designs, tigers, or any kind of “tattoo like” scribble. When in doubt, reach for a classic white t-shirt. It’s a no-brainer that looks great when kept simple and paired with crisp, dark denim.
If you must wear flip-flops make sure those hooves aren’t looking crusty. I don’t mind the nice leather looking ones from Rainbow, or something similar. You can’t go wrong with squeaky-clean sneakers either.
Sweatpants are not outerwear unless they are Alexander Wang, and I don’t want to see you out in public in sweaties.
Denim is a dude staple, but don’t go wrong with awkward fading and that bleachy looking style. Opt for a classic pair that can be worn every day for any occasion. I’d recommend splurging on one pair that will last forever and only get better with age. A.P.C. and Wings +Horns make great guy-approved jeans that are def worth the price.
Hit the break and click to shop my picks for summer that won't land you on the worst dressed list!
Today is Mick Jagger's 69th birthday and I would like to celebrate with some images of him. Whether looking dapper in suits or glam in spandex, Mick has always been a fashion icon to men and women alike. Here's to you Mick, and may you keep on rocking for years to come.
I know this has been out for a while, but I still can't get over the amazing Prada Fall 2012 Menswear campaign. When the collection was shown in Milan this past January, the presentation was regarded as one of the best of the season, not only because of the collection itself but because of the parade of dapper celebrities that accompanied the models down the runway, including Adrien Brody, Gary Oldman, and Willem Defoe. Prada brought some of them back for the campaign, and the result is sheer genius:
Normally menswear campaigns feature a male model who is ridiculously handsome or prettier than I am, and while they are nice to look at (who among us doesn't like to look at hot guys?) they don't really draw the viewer in and make as impactful a statement as this Prada campaign does. Maybe it's because the models are actors and therefore can exude a persona that normal models can't? Maybe it's because they are personalities we know and respect, and therefore elevate the campaign? Maybe because it's Gary fucking Oldman and he is just plain awesome? Whatever the reason, this campaign will go down as one of the most memorable, in my humble opinion. I know celebrities are used in fashion campaigns all the time, but this one to me seems to be more sincere, more purposeful. Now then, here are more campaign shots and a behind the scenes video:
As mentioned, SE Hawthorne's Imelda's and Louie's shoe store has acquired the former Cold Stone Creamery space next door, which they are going to dedicate to expanding the Louie's/men's half of the enterprise. I never set foot in the Cold Stone, and so never realized the size of it until seeing the photos being taken of the remodel. The current location is already about three times the average size of a boutique, so when the project is completed, Imelda's and Louie's will qualify as massive, surely the largest square footage in the city dedicated to shoes outside of corporate entities like Nordstrom and Macy's. At this point it's still looking quite raw, but you can monitor the progress as it unfolds by following their documentation of it on Facebook.
Good news guys: Your shoe selection just got bigger. Neighborhood stalwart Imelda's and Louie's is taking over the space east of their current—and already pretty roomy—space on SE Hawthorne, devoting the entirety of it to the "Louie's" end of the bargain, AKA the men's department. I think that will officially make it the largest men's shoe store in town, yes? Yes. To the boots.
It looks like the sun is FINALLY here to stay, and if you're like me, it's probably dawned on you that it's been so long since you've seen such a thing that you have nothing to wear for it. That said, here's a list of summer menswear picks on my wishlist. And if your one of those guys who hates shopping, don't worry, all the following items can be found online, too.
I love pretty much everything by Nau. I'm totally digging this breezy take on the classic plaid shirt, and like all of Nau's clothes, this shirt can be worn with virtually everything.
For guys who aren't afraid to rock a little pink (me!). While Shop Adorn tends to get more attention for their womenswear, they have a smaller but still substantial selection of men's wear. Its one of my favorite stores to find cool clothes at a very reasonable price range. I've never left without buying something.
I'm just a sucker for leather high tops. While these shoes aren't technically season specific, they would go just as well with a pair of shorts as they would with a pair of Acne slim-cut Max jeans (an item for another wish list).
I'm so over giant board shorts at the beach (and have been for like ten years). I like a pair of swim trunks that lets me show a little leg without looking like a pervy '70's gym coach.
Going through the second batch of Spring 2013 Menswear Collections there was somewhat of a shift. Still lots of color and print, but the proportions and silhouettes changed, which is not surprising given that the second batch consisted of designers like Yohji Yamomoto, Rick Owens, and Maison Martin Margiela, who tend to show looks that are full and asymmetrical. Then there were the crazy-ass plaids shown on silver men from Thom Brown.
I tend to gravitate toward looks that are more minimal, but still have an edge, and you can't beat a well tailored suit, which most of the collections have. I am loving what is going on with the knits, colorful with lots of different textures. My favorite overall collections include Jonathan Saunders, Balmain, and Paul Smith. Here are my favorite looks:
Going through the Spring 2013 Menswear Collections, one will notice common elements throughout most of them: Prints and polka dots, shiny fabrics, and bold color, even if just little pops of it in a seemingly monochromatic look/collection. There was also an interesting thing going on around the waist in some of the collections. Many designers decided it should be a focal point, whether subtly with a cummerbund, as at Les Hommes, or WWF/gladiator style as at Versace. These collections are pretty daring, and much of it would never be seen on the streets of Portland. I do, however, think the men of Portland could take a few of these trends and incorporate them into their everyday look, even on a small scale. And no, plaid (as in flannel shirts) does not count as a print. My favorite overall collections of this first batch include Gucci, John Varvatos, and Salvatore Ferragamo.
Here are some of my favorite looks:
Paul McCartney (my favorite Beatle) turns 70 years old today, and he shows no signs of slowing down. We all know Stella McCartney and her contributions to fashion, but Paul and The Beatles (and their lady friends of course) were major influencers of fashion as well, especially in the 1960s. Below is a look back at his sartorial choices, from The Beatles to Wings.
In this week's paper, I profiled PINO, a new line of men's accessories designed by Crispin Argento, which made its debut last month in a well-received presentation that served as a precursor to Isaac Hers' fall show. The ties and kerchiefs come in a range of offbeat colors and charming seersucker stripes, and because Argento is, in part, using the line as an experiment to better understand the challenges of designing and producing high quality designs, building a brand, and surviving in Portland, the prices are super reasonable. I squeezed in two shots in our print edition, including one from the runway debut (wherein he paired his work with some of Brooks Brothers' more whimsical offerings), but here's a whole slew of 'em for your eyeballing pleasure:
Geez, the music world has really taken a blow the last couple of weeks, with the latest falling star being Robin Gibb of the Bee Gees, who lost his battle with cancer on Sunday. As a huge Bee Gees fan, this news was a major bummer for me. Many only know of the Bee Gees as the disco gods they were, but they have a huge (and amazing, Bee Gees' 1st and Idea being two of my all time favorite albums) catalog from the 1960s. Before the Bee Gees donned their matching leisure suits, they dressed up and far out like the best of them. Below are some great examples of Robin's style from the 1960s, with some of the disco stuff thrown in because it's just too awesome not to include. R.I.P., Robin. Say hi to Maurice and Andy for me.
The lineup for this Saturday's Open Season Mercury fashion show was already pretty great, but the last minute addition of Bridge & Burn has just upped the ante. If you've attended in years past, there's a good chance you've seen Bridge & Burn's effortlessly cool, wearable clothing for men and women. Starting with jackets, and moving on to separates, they've created a line of go-to pieces that are affordable and unpretentious but distinctive and appealing. Come see the latest designs this weekend, since they tend to disappear from the racks of shops so quickly.
For my retail coverage in this week's new Sold Out column, I went outside my usual purview to cover See See Motorcycles, the custom motorcycle/coffee/retail shop recently opened on NE Sandy by Thor Drake and George Kassapakis. While for the purposes of my column I was expressly concerned with the newly opened retail ring, which sells both armored gear and helmets as well as streetwear for off the bike, with healthy representations of locally designed merch by brands like Icon, Poler, and Jacqueline Davis, the rest of the space is pretty awesome, with custom helmet displays, big, airy spaces, and a giant snake mural—a reproduction of a smaller version on the wall of Drake's former shop off N Interstate, which you might recognize:
A while back I mentioned the forthcoming N Mississippi shop Worn Path, a man-centric destination for "Small '70s referential cruiser skateboards and supplies, Murdey Surfboards, Poler Camping Stuff, Juniper Ridge teas and household items, Tim Adam bags, books on Northwest plants identification as well as mushrooms and handmade houses, planters made by John Sardari (Goby Hardwoods), small furniture made by James Sinacore, knives by Opinel and Helle, letterpress cards and art by Fortress Letterpress, Zig Zag shoes, plus a mixture of clothing items and other goods to use while out in the wild," according to owner Niles Armstrong, whose own line of accessories will round out the mix.
Well, its arrival is now imminent, with doors set to open this Saturday and an opening celebration scheduled for 7 pm.
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