
With the vast majority being made in overseas factories, the art of custom shoe crafting has come very near to the brink of extinction in recent times. Thankfully, there's been a revival of sorts, just as there's been similar returns to tradition in everything from food production (hi home canning and kimchee and kombucha!) to local small-batch manufacturing (welcome back, Butcher, Baker, and Candlestick Maker!).
Halo Shoes has long been Portland's ground zero for serious shoes, and in their current location they have the luxury of a workshop space to accommodate those who are ready to take their obsession to the next level and start getting their hands dirty. Enter Daniel McRorie, a Brooklyn shoemaker who Halo brought out to teach a workshop next weekend wherein participants will make their own pair of moccasins (from pre-drafted patterns, thankfully eliminating the suckiest part). Speaking of serious, the workshop is about as cheap as a pair of shoes from Halo (read: not cheap), but reading my Q&A with the guy in this week's Sold Out column? Totally free.

Mega-chain clothing store H&M got some good environmental buzz going last week when it announced a new recycling initiative that will roll out in all of the 48 markets it operates in, including Portland. Beginning in February, you'll be able to take your unwanted clothing—any brand or condition—into an H&M and offload it for recycling (either to charity or to be re-purposed into other materials and textiles) in exchange for vouchers to the store.
I'll be the first to criticize H&M for its mass-marketing, prevalence of cheap synthetic materials, copying of designers, and propagation of the "fast fashion" culture of buying a ton of cheap shit, but this move looks like a point in the company's favor. It's essentially the same experience of offloading your things at Buffalo Exchange or Red Light after they've rejected the opportunity to buy a single one of your items, but bringing it into the malls and suburbs of the metropolitan area. The company has ramped up their presence dramatically in the area over the past five years, and apparently Portland is eating it right up, so this is a nice change of pace from sweatshop scandals and alleged shredding of unsold merchandise.

Yesterday I had the opportunity to interview the fabulous Tim Gunn. I am not exaggerating when I say he was one of the most fascinating and kind people I have ever spoken with (and trust me, I am not quick to compliment.) If you don't believe me you can see for yourself: Tim will be hosting a fashion show at the Nordstrom’s in Washington Square this Saturday at 1 pm. Lucky Brand jeans will be walking the runway, and you may even get the chance to meet the man, the legend, himself (Tim Gunn, duh!).
So mark your calendars for Saturday the 12th at 1 pm, because you know how much we love to give you the opportunity to meet famous people.
MERCURY: I know I speak for all of Portland when I say we are so excited to have you in town. I personally am thrilled to be able to attend the fashion show next Saturday! As the Chief Creative Officer of Fifth & Pacific, you must attend a ton of these kind of shows. Can you talk a bit about what the show will be like? I know it's not quite just a classic runway show, correct?
TIM GUNN: Of course! This fashion show will be featuring Lucky Brand jeans, and the models are really just everyday people! The point is to highlight the great jeans and tee shirts, and offer tips on how to style with these items and make them more interesting, while staying classic. These fashion shows provide people with more information about the brand, while imparting to everyone that you should find your own personal style. What I want everyone to walk away with is the fact that however you want to dress, you should be able to! Embrace your own style! This may sound selfish, but I always come away from these shows feeling just wonderful!
Quite recently I sat down for coffee with Joanna Bean Martin, who runs AfterAll Creative Studio. You may recognize her name from a previous post I wrote a while back called 48 Hours in Portland with Joanna Bean Martin. We caught up over americanos about what she’s been up to at AfterAll, her current local crushes, and everything in between.
The Mercury: How did you get started with AfterAll?
Joanna Bean Martin: We moved here from Los Angeles last spring, and Gretchen Jones contacted me after her Project Runway win. I developed her branding, collateral, website, and logo. Before that I worked with clients like Current/Elliot and Forever 21, in their graphic department, creating labels and branding. My husband and I also work together; he runs AfterAll film productions.
Where do you do you find inspiration for your projects?
JBM: Well, I have my inspiration blog called madepadre, which is a collection of found images organized by color. It is really helpful to reference when I’m working on a new project. I also spend a lot of time on the web, specifically Pinterest, lots of fashion, photography, food and art blogs. When I start to work with a client I like for them to send some inspiration images and words to get a sense of their eye, typography, and color preferences. Then I put together an inspiration board and get feedback about what they do and don’t like.
What/who are your current local crushes? (Food, shops, bars)
JBM: Evan at the Woodsman Tavern, my friends and I often go in to grab drinks there. Miho restaurant on NE Interstate is good. For bars I like Sweet Hereafter on Belmont. Also I really like Diana from Standup Comedy, her approach to her space is really great. Oh, and Sword+Fern’s shop for jewelry.
Who are some of your favorite designers?
JBM: Isabel Marant, Balmain, Osei-Duro (Whose printed coat she was rocking, and it was totes amaze ) and Suno.
Can you tell me about any new happenings, events, or projects at AfterAll?
JBM: Our office is above Lucas salon so the space is very flexible, we have the ability to move all the hair stations around and make one big open space. We are hoping in the near future to have a pop-up shop event, live music, and art events. I’m interested in doing an LA focused pop-up shop featuring independent Los Angeles designers. (When we sat down, I noticed her amazing bangles and Ms. Martin happily exclaimed that they were made by one of her favorite LA designers who may be coming up for the pop-up event!) This spring Lucas salon will also host photographer Nikki Fenix.
For more information about AfterAll click here.
Can you tell me about the power of mirrors and the importance of their placement within your living space?
Linda Cahan: Mirrors double what they reflect so one of the old ancient Feng Shui beliefs is that if you place the mirror over your burners it will double your luck because food is a blessing. This is very difficult to do it because it gets greasy, so sometimes it’s better to do things more symbolically. Mirrors should be high enough so it doesn’t cut anyone off at the head. When mirrors are not placed high enough it makes people feel unwelcome and uncomfortable. A mirror should always be positioned above your head so you (symbolically) have room to grow. If for instance, you’ve got a mirror reflecting your kitchen and its always messy you should keep the kitchen more organized.
What are a few easy tips anyone could do to improve the overall balance and energy of their space?
Clear out the clutter! Clean your room, essentially the minute you clean closets, organize drawers, and get rid of those piles of stuff it will be like your space is breathing again. Rather than the energy flowing freely, clutter traps the energy and when you remove it will instantly create a better balance in your space. For someone who is organized and neat—look at the center of your living space. No matter where the center is this is where the balance of your home is defined. This is where you want to put something that is symbolic of what balance means to you. For some people that is the yin and yang, a loving viable home life combined with a prosperous work life. You can write your intention down, make a collage, or find a photo of what balance means to you. It is also good to bring in natural elements like plants or rocks into this space.
What is one of the most common and easily fixed issues within Feng Shui?
People create awkward spaces for themselves. Try to create a more human friendly environment, avoid sharp angles (poison arrows). Where do you avoid or have to be careful in your living space? For instance if you are cramped in your workspace, alleviate the space by clearing out the clutter and giving yourself more room to be comfortable.
If you are focusing on one area of your life, for instance love life, career, or your finances, how can you put extra attention on that specific sector to help it grow?
First know the sector, (click here to see a diagram/direction of each sector) and then you can determine what’s important to you. For instance, if you want to highlight your relationship sector you may want to do a collage or write down something you want to create for yourself. The intention is a symbolic ritual that is all about your intention to create something positive in your life. This becomes a very powerful unconscious signal to your higher self that this is what toy want to attract. You are essentially giving yourself a blueprint.
How does clutter affect energy flow? What can one do to remedy this issue?
It’s the prospect of de-cluttering your entire place feels daunting or insane just do your sock drawer. Try doing one area at a time! Just 15 or 20 minutes a day and your life will change.
Just in time for Valentine’s Day, Linda will be hosting a ‘Finding the Love of Your Life’
workshop on Sunday at the New Renaissance Bookshop from 2pm-5pm. Linda’s husband Chris Stopa who is an energy healer will also be on hand looking at energy levels and where you hold stress and anxiety in relationships. Register here, cost $35. For more info click here.
Meanwhile, in Los Angeles:

Mercury: Last time I saw you was on the runway at Portland Fashion Week (where I also lovingly work!), what have you been up to since then?
Seth Aaron Henderson: I’ve been traveling a lot, doing lectures at colleges, sometimes with Mondo [Guerra]. I’ve also created a few custom gowns. One was for First Lady of Oregon, which she wore to the Governor's Ball.
Tell me about the launch of your RTW line at LA Fashion Week. Project Ethos seems like an interesting combination of fashion, music, and art. What are you looking forward to with the launch of this line?
I was given a sponsorship for this event, [and] it's being held at a great venue, the Avalon, which is a prime location. I didn’t go too crazy with this line. It’s very sellable, very wearable, nothing to translate. The line includes slacks, jackets, dresses, and evening. Overall the line is clean, strong, and modern. [It] will be sold in Portland at Anne Bocci Boutique. There is also interest from boutiques in LA, New York, Sweden, and Canada.
The Pacific Northwest is home to so many creative designers. Do you find that fashion here is more community based then in other big cities such as LA or New York?
Honestly, I just do what I want. I try not to think of who's going to like this, or who’s not, as long as I’m happy with it.
Stay tuned for pics from the debut of Seth Aaron's ready-to-wear line at Project Ethos LAFW...
New York Fashion Week is in full swing. Lucky for us, we have a native Oregonian on the inside. Free-spirited, fabulous, and always in style, Eli James found her niche upon moving to the Big Apple in the fall of 2010. Meeting esteemed fashion photographer Wendell Teodoro earlier this year, well that was merely a coincidence.
This morning, in-between shows Eli and I caught up for a few minutes before the chaos that is NYFW resumed.
Mercury: How did you go from small town girl in Grants Pass, Oregon to working for an established fashion photographer at New York Fashion Week?
Eli James: Small town girls usually have big time dreams, and I have never been afraid to take risks. I met Wendell Teodoro, the photographer who I am assisting, when I first moved to New York in September. He was here shooting fall fashion week. His company, Zeduce is based in Australia, his images are purchased by publications such as Vogue Australia and Marie Claire. He is hired by Getty to shoot as well.
What has been the best moment of NYFW thus far?
Getting backstage access, and having the ability to shoot! I shot my first show solo yesterday, impromptu, Diesel Black and Gold. There was a moment when I realized that I was shooting a high fashion show, and that these images could be published in Vogue Australia.
Have you seen any noteworthy trends?
I don't know about trends, but I like clothing that shows off the collar bone, it is my favorite part of the body.
Where is your favorite spot to shop while visiting Portland?
Favorite store in Portland is the Mustard Seed, a thrift shop located in the basement of the church, located by the house my mother grew up in, in Woodstock.
Describe your style in three words
Cheeky. Coco. Pink.
Hit the jump for some of her NYFW shots.
Last Friday at Lille Boutique attendees were treated to a fashion show of the Spring collection from Unforeseen Circumstances designed out of New York by Teo Griscom. (Check out the apparel line she also co-designs, Jackson, Johnston & Roe). The gorgeous pieces in eye grabbing colors like French blue and vibrant emerald will all be available at Lille. In the meantime check out the fall collection in stock and this Q&A with Griscom herself:

MERCURY: What is your design background, and what is the relationship between Unforeseen Circumstances and Jackson Johnston and Roe?
Teo Griscom: I have a BFA from The School of the Art Institute of Chicago. The school is interdisciplinary, so I worked in painting, printmaking, and photography. I also have an associates degree from The Art Institute of California in Fashion. I have interned for the likes of VPL, and worked freelance as a designer for several knitwear and womenswear collections based in New York. There is really no relationship between the two brands—except that I also am co-owner and designer of Jackson, Johnston and Roe. (I am Johnston). I have designed a few exclusives—Unforeseen Circumstances for JJ&R—in the past. JJ&Rjj and UC definitely share the same principles and philosophy regarding production and material standards.

What are your priorities as a designer, in regards to materials, production, price point, etc?
I have been focusing more on bringing my sensibilities as an artist into the line. I want UC to be sort of fantastical in its use of color and detail, and sold more as one of a kind. I realize also that if I choose to grow the brand that there is a certain expanding that as a designer you have to give into, but there are things I won't comprise on, such as it is really important to me that the line be produced in the US and not in China. I believe strongly in quality and not quantity. Needless to say this makes it a bit of a labor of love and not any sort of monetary glory. I try to use only silks and cottons coming from Italy or France, which is hard, of course. My price point is fairly reasonable—most of it is under $100. As I expand I intend to offer a range of collection price points. I am very much of the thought of owning things that I really love and care for. If one cares for their lingerie, washing it by hand, it will last. My line is not supposed to be really seen as functional everyday wear, under jeans for example. That might really go against people's reason to buy clothes and lingerie in general, but for me it's about slowing down, almost. It's about a consideration in what you wear, if you are, say, hanging around your apartment in the afternoon.

What in particular is new or of note in the spring collection? What were your references?
I added a few new bodies and colors that were influenced by watching Powell and Pressburger films, mainly Red Shoes and Tales of Hoffmann. I love the costumes and the dancing. I am still always thinking about relationships between interiors and one's surroundings. I was also inspired by recent travels to Provence, France and Santa Fe, NM (where I am from).

Thursday seems like forever ago in the wake of the fashion week blur, but it was a scant five days ago that Alicia Wood of Ms. Wood took home the prize at the Catapult emerging designer competition. I took a moment to catch up with Wood about her winning collection and plans for the future:

MERCURY: Can you give us a brief overview of your design background?
ALICIA WOOD: I graduated from the Apparel Design program at Seattle Central in 1994. From there I studied at Parsons New School for Design in New York for a summer, followed by an internship with New York designer Amy Chan. After that I moved back to Seattle and started designing different things, from costumes and bridal to handbags. I went on to work as an Assistant Designer at Tommy Bahama but quickly realized that office work was not my bag. So I quit there to focus more on my own designs, which has led me to the Ms. Wood line today.
How did the idea to transition into more of a street-ready apparel line come about?
After I started creating the Yukata style kimonos about three years ago, I was given a large amount of really nice quality black knit fabric that wouldn’t work with my kimono robes, so I knew I had to come up with something fabulous for this fabric. I decided to make a cardigan, added a leather obi belt, posted it on Esty, and they were quite the hit. So clearly that was what my clients wanted. And then there was the Modified Style fashion show competition, where I was given a bag of random mismatched fabric pieces and told to make something out of it. This wouldn’t work for my robes either so I created a jacket/skirt combo with matching accessories. I just needed the finishing touch, which would be some killer wood/leather platform shoes, but searched high and low to no avail. That’s when my husband, Ben, nonchalantly offered to make a pair for the show. Anyway, this ended up winning first place, which was a huge inspiration to me to go forward with these types of designs.

How do you plan to progress from here with your line? Will we be seeing you continue to develop Ms. Wood as a wider range?
Absolutely! We have so many ideas, and can’t wait to get started. We want to do more with the wood: obi belts, clutches, more jewelry designs, and definitely want to experiment with shoe designs. I’m looking forward to getting a bid more dramatic with some of my looks and feel like the possibilities are endless, really.

What did you think of your PFW experience? Do you have any criticisms of the audience-vote format of the emerging designer showcase?
I thoroughly enjoyed this whole process and am really looking forward to doing it again next year. The people responsible for making Portland Fashion Week happen work really hard and I really appreciate that. As for the voting, I was at first a little nervous at the idea of my fate being in the hands of the audience because that makes it more of a popularity contest and I don’t know a whole lot of people in Portland. But then I was a bit relieved to find out there was also a panel of judges.

What did you think of the presentations by your co-contestants? Who did you see as your biggest competition?
I hadn’t seen anyone’s work until the fittings when I caught a glimpse of a couple pieces from each designer. And the ones I saw made me nervous. It could have been anyone’s win. I am attracted to Nelli Millard’s edgy designs, Rana has an exceptional eye for detail and Devon’s designs are very unique and cutting edge.

In this week's new issue I interviewed Adam Arnold, but due to the constraints of space, the print version is significantly edited down. Like by more than half. If you think Arnold is as hilarious and informative as I do, be sure to read the full-length version, live now.

In this week's paper I have an interview with Sword + Fern's Emily Baker, but because of the space constraints of newspapering, it had to undergo quite a few nips 'n' tucks for print. That's why there's the internet. Here's our Q&A in full:

MERCURY: Over the past two years, how has Sword + Fern evolved? Which changes have been surprises, and which were calculated?
EMILY BAKER: I'm really happy about the shop's natural progression. I haven't made many calculated decisions about the shop at all, apart from curation and the intention I put into the design and feel of the space. I feel like Sword+Fern has turned into a magical little entity that leads me around. The designers and artists I have approached about sharing their work in Sword+Fern have been incredibly open, and the support I have received from Portland has been amazing. It's a super nurturing place that allows us to thrive and show our work. It rules. Still, it hasn't been easy, and I've made a ton of sacrifices in my life to work on the store, and that's been difficult, but it's worth it. I love that people want to come visit this little world i have created.

How has having a brick & mortar affected your jewelry making/business?
I think the opportunities that have come my way have a lot to do with Sword+Fern as a public space. I really can't believe how cool the response has been to my work/interior design/curation from people coming through the door. Whether people come to my studio to find the jewelry or just stumble upon it, I want to make it a kind of weird unexpected experience when they take the time to visit.
The location itself is a very special thing. I love being in the 811 building. It's a tiny portal to another dimension and I love my building mates, especially now that May (of Nationale) and Holly and Laura (of Haunt) have moved in, and that the crazy construction is close to being finished. 811 E. Burnside feels like a special destination. Everyone here works their asses off. It's an awesome thing to be a part of.
Still, the public nature of the space can be challenging. It can be difficult to stay focused when people are visiting and shopping, and there are so many time consuming details involved in maintaining the store as an entity. My jewelry itself probably takes up the least amount of my time. I probably need to stop being stubborn and just hire someone to work here. But I don't know if it would be the same place energetically if I did that. I'm not sure what the answer is, but I hope it presents itself soon so I can spend part of this winter traveling in Mexico with my girlfriend.

A little bird told me you are planning to open a second location in LA. What is the timeline on this, and why LA?
Absolutely. It's pretty simple. I love owning and working on my shop, so why not open another one? Plus, I love L.A. I get really great reactions from my L.A. customers. They give me a lot of the confidence to do it.
Three years ago I almost moved to L.A. but chose Portland instead, so I feel like it would be fun to have a shop in the city that I could visit and take care of when I'm cold in Portland. I love the idea of a little piece of the Pacific Northwest in sunny L.A., and I definitely have it in the five year plan. I hope it works out.

Outside of L.A. talks, what are your next goals for Sword + Fern? Anything you want to add/provide in terms of goods, services, art, landscaping, architecture?
Short term, I am getting excited for holiday, I plan to offer some great new designers in the shop. Also I have been working on creating an apothecary in the shop, with teas, my lip balm, tinctures, and more from local harvests and herbalists—something I've wanted for a long time. I am searching, so let it be known, if you or anybody you know makes amazing sustainably harvested/organic tinctures, flower essences, incense, or natural perfumes locally, give me a call! As far as goods for the rest of the shop, I want to stick with more of the same: vintage, ceramics, paper—I wish I could stumble on a giant hill of obscure textiles, that's a dream. I am working on it, and changing up designers as I explore and find new work.
I have two installation shows planned for the end of the year, including a study of insects by (ex-Explode into Colors' drummer) entomologist Lisa Schonberg. I'd love to be more diligent in the curation of visual art, but I will have to see what comes my way and stay open to possibilities. It has to feel good energetically. I have a new collection coming soon and a photo shoot planned with Sarah Meadows. I told her I designed some of the collection with her photography in mind,which I am very excited about. Besides all of that, just trying to keep moving forward, slowly, with everything all the time.
... I don't want to make any promises. Everything has unfolded pretty nicely just going with the flow. I am always sort of surprised myself how the place has turned out.

Don't miss the second anniversary celebration of Sword+Fern this Friday (tomorrow) starting at 5 pm at 811 E Burnside.
Check out Laura Irwin of Precious Knit's podcast interview on Knit Happens that went up last night, including deets on new shop she's opening along with Holly Stalder in August!

Hello Craft's second annual Summit of Awesome weekend series is fast approaching—check out the extensive schedule of speakers and workshops here. And while online registration was to have closed at noon today, beginning tomorrow you can register in person on-site at the Kennedy School. Kimberly Dorn, executive director of Hello Craft, answers a few questions about the proceedings.
MERCURY: How many years has the Summit of Awesome gone on? Where has it been held in the past, and how did you determine that it would be held in Portland this year?
KIMBERLY DORN: This is the 2nd annual Summit of Awesome. Last year, we held the first Summit in Washington DC. At last year's Summit, we had a fair amount of attendees from the West Coast, so we thought that it would be neat to bring the Summit closer to them this year.
What do you think is the biggest takeaway goal from the summit? Is it to make the attendees better business people, to foster the community of makers, to have fun, something else?
It's all three! I hope that attendees feel more empowered on the business end of their craft after the Summit, and that they have made lasting fun and business connections that they take with them and foster when they go home.
Can you give me a sense of what the demographics of the Show of Awesome sale event will look like? What proportion of the sellers will be from outside this region, and where are most of them from? Do people come in from throughout the country? Internationally?
The majority of vendors are from the Portland and surrounding areas, but there are also many vendors from across the country. The demographic of the fair mirrors most indie craft fairs, with the many female vendors, in their mid 20s-late 30s.
What is the expected attendance of the summit this year?
We have space for 200, and do expect to sell out on-site. Our online sales will close down Tuesday at Noon, but we will be accepting walk-up registration on-site, starting Wednesday Morning. 3-day, 2-day, 1-day and Workshop-Only passes will be available. First come, first serve.

Yeah yeah, we all love the Blazers and everything, but when they yank my space in the paper from me, Portland's number of regularly printed fashion/retail columns sinks from 1 to 0. What a shame. Lucky for the internets, Sold Out is still online, and available for you to check out now. In it you'll find a Q&A with Sarah Wizemann of Lille Boutique on her shop's third anniversary, including the bomb-drop that at Saturday's party you can get 20% off storewide! Not to mention adorable photos of Sarah and the store by David Reamer:

This week I made brief mention of Portland Sewing, a new institution for sewing instruction and beyond founded by Sharon Blair. There's more to the story than what was crammed in that limited space, though! See below for the Q&A with Blair, and check it out yourself on Sunday's open house, 3-5 pm.

• What led to the decision to begin teaching sewing lessons?
Teaching has long been in my blood. I have to thank Pati Palmer for leading me to teach sewing. But before that I taught in high schools. And I've long been making and selling clothes — most recently under my StudioSKB and SKPDX lines. I'm interested in how things work, then sharing what I've learned with others.
• How is PS different from classes offered at the Art Institute? Would you say that it is in competition with the school or that it compliments it?
S compliments AI. Most of the people who would come to PS would not likely go to AI. They want to know how to drape, pattern, sew with industrial machines and the like but they aren't inclined to go to AI. For the rest, you could say it's a prep and finishing school. We AI teachers have often expressed how we wished our new students would enter with more skills. Unlike other fashion design institutes, AI doesn't require a portfolio. Students don't even need to know how to sew or draw. But if they did know some of this going in, we all would have a richer, fuller experience at AI. Sue Bonde, AI's apparel department director, and I have talked about continuing education for graduates. So PS offers the facilities and classes to keep graduates' skills in tune with changing demands of the apparel industry.
• What does PS bring to the community that is unique; what is it making available to Portlanders for the first time?
We offer apparel design and business classes people can't get anywhere else. Like many others, we teach beginning sewing, but we use professional, ready-to-wear techniques. And if you want to go on to industrial machines, you can. Like some, we teach patternmaking, but if you want to go on to draping and computer patternmaking you can. You can take fashion drawing, then if you want to learn how to do it on the computer you can. In fact, with these computer skills, you can get a foot in the door of some apparel companies. To that end, we offer a certificate once you've completed these courses. You can find business courses elsewhere, but my colleagues and I have created courses aimed just toward apparel business. To that end, we also offer a apparel business certificate. These are aimed at independent designers who want to start or maintain an apparel business. In fact, our slogan is "we are apparel people teaching apparel people."
• I realize that you've been teaching as Portland Sewing since 2002, can you describe to me the growth that brought it up to the stage at which it was time to open a brick and mortar institution? Was that always the goal?
All this grew rather organically. I've taught at many places, including PCC. Along the way, people kept asking me for more classes, or the next class or they've suggested a class from my apparel design work. But I never found the right facilities to hold all the classes I had to offer. The last place where I was teaching sewing classes was Ruthie's Rags, a fabric store. Ruth decided to "retire" from her store. That gave me to push to buy and open my own place. So far, it's been great. It's big and homey and has room for all the classes plus one on textile manipulation — a basement where we can get really messy. Plus it has room for a little fabric and notions store and that drive-through notions window!

Janeane Marie Ceccanti is on this morning's edition of Think Out Loud right now talking about being on Project Runway. Listen here and look for a Wrap-Up of last night's episode later today.

I mentioned yesterday that there's a new Portland entity in the works that's being formed to support the apparel design and manufacturing industry in town, the Portland Apparel Development Co-op. I was unclear on some of the details, given the brevity of a press release that centered on the co-op's upcoming open house this Saturday at 6 pm at the headquarters: 2515 NW Nicolai. I think the founder of the co-op/Rose City Textiles/U4E, Wilson Bright, may address some of these questions in more detail at the open house, as he's asked me to use some of them during the party's Q&A. From what he's said here, this looks like another great opportunity for people working in the local industry to get in on the ground floor of something. If there's any truth and future in the idea that local economies will sustain us, opportunities such as this should be highly valued.
Can you outline what Rose City Textiles Inc. has been doing for the last 26 years of business? Do they manufacture fabric?
WILSON BRIGHT: For 26 years we have been a consignment company selling excess fabric from large outerwear manufacturers. We started converting fabric in Asia about 6 years ago. We also managed some very large private label programs of outerwear apparel in Asia.
Does the founding of the co-op mean that the corporation is going to cease its normal operations completely?
The Rose City Textiles Inc. would cease to be a legal identity with all the fabric, equipment, and intellectual property being turned over to the co-op. I would become a teacher more than a broker. We would keep all our normal business activities to support the co-op. The concept of cost would have to become more transparent, with the needs of the co-op being recognized in pricing.
What kind(s) of fee structure(s) are available to local designers, and can people join now?
The development center currently offers the use of CAD pattern software, a small fleet of sewing machines, as well as embroidery, seam-sealing and direct-to-garment printing machines. A crucial tool that will complete the system is an electronic cutting table, allowing computerized patterns to be cut precisely and quickly, streamlining the prototyping and manufacturing process. We have had access to this
machine over the past months, allowing our designers to prove its worth, but have been unable to come to a mutually beneficial operating agreement with the machine's owners, and therefore are developing a plan to purchase one for the co-op.
The fee structure is not yet set as it is necessary for us to work with designers to ensure that the fees are affordable and appropriate. We are open to working with interested designers whether their interest be
developing their own brands or joining the U4E brand.
What is the relationship between Rose City/Portland Apparel Development and U4E? Have you been working with them from their inception?
I am proposing as the founder and sole owner of Rose City Textiles, and the Architect of U4E, to create the Portland Apparel Development Co-op. The touchiest issues are really that I, Wilson Bright, have a stronger vested interest in the U4E Brand than I do in the Portland Apparel Development Co-op. I believe by using a transparent enough accounting system, the Development Co-op can feel safe that the brand is paying its share of the co-op's cost. The idea is that the more successful the U4E brand, the lower the costs for the co-op, in turn reducing the overall membership costs of all designers. It may be the second most liked brand of every designer.
Does joining the co-op necessitate also becoming part of U4E?
Definitely not. The idea is that The Portland Apparel Development Co-op becomes a neutral ground for all designers, a place to co-op the fabric buys, use the apparel development equipment and rent warehouse space, accounting, knowledge, etc.... To get to the entry level of U4E, I am leaving it to the group to give comment, and help me make the best way based on "The laws of openness." This will be voted on by the Board of Directors after the first investment has taken place. I will suggest an approach that requires a tenor at the co-op that gives the person the needed knowledge, and then some kind of membership (or Public) vetting process that allows entry.
Most of us know Ryan Christensen as the founder and CEO of Sameunderneath, the local apparel company that he sold to another local company (LFI) in September. Now, he is embarking on a new chapter with RYZ Wear, another locally founded company that invites artists to design graphics on a template sneaker design, which are then voted on by the company's online community to determine which styles go into production, a method called crowdsourcing. I wrote about it briefly here, but behind the jump is a Q & A that further explores his transition.

A contender from RYZ's site: "Back Burn" by DamienOReilly
One of my big new year's resolutions is to start a successful blog and make tons of money and move to some tropical place and drink slushie alcoholic drinks all day. Easy peasy, I'm sure. One lady that's mostly done this (though she chooses to kick back in our fare city instead of at the beach) is the lovely Chelsea Fuss of {frolic!}. The blog is like a sugary treat, featuring a variety of simply lovely things: photos from her always beautiful adventures in Portland, new clothes from local and not-so-local designers, magazine cutouts of beautifully-styled rooms, pics of backyard parties that she's styled. Chelsea is so good at blogging that late last year she was able to leave her nine-to-five to blog full time, so I asked her some questions about her blogging start to see where everything went so right. Check the Q&A after the jump.
photo by john valls, styled by chelsea fuss
My column this week takes a look at the recent Sofada fashion show, but a mere 450 words could not contain the long conversation I had with Sofada designer Alice Dobson. Below is the full Q & A, with more pictures from the show taken by Minh Tran.
You've been designing in Portland for quite some time. Recap?
I've been sewing my whole life. Right around eight years old I have concrete images of sewing, but I know I started earlier than that. All through grade and high school I liked to make things. I went to Seaside High School, which offered sewing as an elective, and I felt so fortunate to finally have a teacher. When I moved to Portland, I worked at Washington Mutual, and although I had been selling my things through word of mouth, for cheap, it never dawned on me that that could be my job. It seemed like a pipe dream. I was working at the uptown branch, and this really stylish guy and his wife would come in to do their banking. They told me about FIDM in Los Angeles, and I immediately knew that I would go there. My degree is in apparel manufacturing, because that program also included classes on how to make a business. I was 20 when went there, and moved back at 23. I heard randomly about Seaplane, and was totally excited because even three years before there was nothing going on in Portland. It's been this huge bubble burst of fashion designers since. I met Kate [Towers] at Seaplane, and my stuff started selling immediately. Kate and Holly [Stalder] were sending people to me all the time who wanted a certain dress in a different color, etc. I was tired of people coming over all the time, so I started looking around for shops, and found the teeny one on Fremont. It had no bathroom, no air conditioning--which in a shop is horrible.

In retrospect, what do you think about your decision to pursue apparel design in Portland as opposed to New York or another large market?
I think it was the best decision I ever made. And I cried when I was leaving LA. I loved my life there. There's an omelet named after me there. I thought, "What am I doing moving back to Portland, Oregon?" But my husband and I wanted to buy a house. It only took two months to see that things had changed, and probably because of Kate and Holly. I feel like I am lucky to have gotten in on the ground floor. It's definitely been nice, and I feel special to have been part of that growth. I've been in business six years and it just worked out, because of really good timing, good people. I never had any ambition to go to New York. It's too far away, I have my family. Even when I sold my line in LA, I had so much trouble just getting paid. Here we have a pretty good handful of designers, but in LA there's like two million. I thank every day that I went to school in LA, and that I moved back when I did.

Can you talk a little but about your business plan and current goals? How important is growth to you?
It's changed over the years. In the beginning, growth was really important, but I was taught in school "baby steps, baby steps, baby steps." I just want to live nicely, like anybody. The business doesn't need to be huge and I don't need to be rich. I just want to keep on working and building the business. When I went to New York fashion week, I was six months pregnant, and when I had my son I had to step back. I got so much good press and so much business, but in hindsight, it was sort of too big of a step. I had to make a choice: I have my family and my business. I decided to focus on the wholesale accounts that really loved me, and concentrate on the store. The store is my bread and butter, and I wanted to get my production in-house. We now even offer production for other lines outside of Sofada under the name Alice, Inc. We've always sewn in-house, but we used to send things out to local contractors too, and always had problems. I'm so much busier on Burnside [2937 E Burnside], and I'm so happy we were able to buy the building. I now have four employees, plus interns. I personally don't make much money at all. I pay my mortgage and pay the girls, but that way everybody has a job.
This week, I wrote about RYZ, the new shoe company founded by ex-Adidas brass Rob Langstaff. It was the mini-size version of my column run this week, so that I barely had space to explain the concept (would-be designers can download a template of the RYZ sneaker, embellish it with whatever graphics they can come up with, and then upload their design to the company's web site, where it is rendered in 3-D and voted on by member of the RYZ online community. the contests happen in cycles, and only the winners of each cycle's shoe design goes into production. whew, got that?)
I was curious, especially after having two consecutive Merc fashion shows that invited the audience to vote (both times the went for the designer with the biggest, most theatrical presentation), what Langstaff's take is on having matters of design decided democratically. I shot him a few questions, about this issue and a few other details, which I'm posting here as a little supplement from what has already been published in print:
Where did you find the inspiration for the RYZ business model?
Observing behavior. Society started shifting away from passive consumerism to active participation. The growth of You-Tube and Wikipedia points towards a more activist populace choosing to participate and share their knowledge and creativity. I wanted to take this motivation and channel it into innovative sneaker design.
What is your response to the point of view that matters of fashion and style should not be left to popular vote, that doing so will water down innovative design and produce results that are increasingly
pedestrian/least common denominator?
We here at RYZ believe in strength in numbers; power to the people. We have members with artistic talent and trained design eyes, and the diversity of RYZnation ensures that RYZ will bring freshness and innovation to the marketplace.
My take is that your marketing strategy is designed to appeal to an artsy, design-focused crowd who will counter this potential [watering down] effect by being drawn to the more interesting designs. Would you agree with that?
Absolutely.
Were these issues consciously addressed during the planning stages?
We addressed this by the groups we targeted from the outset, as well as the tools required to participate. We did our Beta testing with the Portland Art Institute, and our first competition was done in conjunction with 52 Limited’s creative collective. So from the start we targeted both designer students and designer professionals. Also, the designer needs to use Photoshop or Illustrator to complete the upload onto our design template. This software is quite expensive and we knew on the one side that this would be a potential limitation of the number of the designs that we would receive, but we felt that this barrier would also ensure that those who participate would be serious designers.
Where did the design of the shoe/canvas come from?
It was a collaboration of Mikal Peveto, a former Nike and adidas product manager and Peter LaRowe, Nike and Converse designer. We used this particular silhouette because we believe a canvas shoe would be the best medium to print on. Our goal is to offer multiple different silhouettes and materials in the near future.

The online contest in on over at RYZ. It's free to register and vote on the designs. This one is titled "Bitchin camero." Someone should tell the designer how to spell Camaro.
Another MOD Q & A! This installment: Pamela Baker-Miller whose new store Frances May is one of a number of shops, which, along with the looming Ace Hotel, have galvanized the "West End" of downtown. Here's what's on her mind these days:
What are your picks of this season from your store?
A Mooka Kinney Romper:

Rachel Comey high waisted camp shorts, Church + State's Work Horse Jacket:

A Samantha Pleet blue mini dress, and Christian Joy's Bridge Top.
Favorite Places to eat?
Simpatica for brunch, and Clyde Common for happy hour. Cheap eats are Pho Hung and the Mexican food cart on 50th and Division.
Drink of choice?
Everyday drink: vodka soda, hard day drink: Makers on the rocks, end of the night: Budweiser bottle.
What summer music are you playing at your store?
Au Revoir Simone, Paul Simon's Graceland , and the Beach Boys.
Travel destination and dream companion?
Brazil with all my girlfriends.
Favorite quote?
"You could be a part-time model." -Flight of the Concords
Items in your wear-every-day outfit?
A charm necklace, a Mina Stone dress or jeans and deep-v neck, Minnetonkas.
What Portland event/concert are you looking forward to?
I never know who's playing until the day of. The TBA festival is right around the corner.
Last thing you bought?
Ditto shorts.
Meet Sarah (if you don't already know her, you haven't been to Lille often enough!) as she gives us her current nearest and dearest selections on matters of style:
What are your picks of this season from your store?
A VPL Bisectional Set—Amazing art deco-inspired bralette/boyshort that could almost double as a bathing suit:
A Stella McCartney Dolly Snogging Set—The most unique bra I've ever seen; creates a gorgeous line on the neck:
An Araks Petra One-Piece Bathing Suit—Supremely elegant; very French Riviera:
And an Araks Organics Dasha Teddy—Cute and loose, it would be adorable worn over tights and a cami if you're fearless:

What are your favorite places to eat?
Masu East, Le Pigeon, Toro Bravo, and Noble Rot.
Drink of choice?
French 75—so crisp and clean for the summer. Be careful, though—they hit you hard.
What summer music are you playing at Lille?
St. Vincent's Marry Me, MGMT's Oracular Spectacular, Cat Power's Jukebox, Simone White's I Am the Man, Spoon's Ga Ga Ga Ga Ga, and Devotchka's A Mad and Faithful Telling.
Ideal travel destination and dream companion?
Kyoto with my husband—reliving my honeymoon!
Favorite quote?
"Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's courage." —Anaïs Nin
What items are in your wear-every-day outfit?
Can I give you my current favorite outfit that I might not get to wear every day? [Of course!—Ed.]: An Eres Edelia/Domino set in Rosemary; a 3.1 Philip Lim Flutter Sleeve Blouse; LAMB Navy Flared Shorts; J. Crew Leather Ballet Flats; and a Marc Jacobs Mouse Gray Turnlock Tote. If I'm going for over-the-top '60s glamour, maybe a vintage silk scarf wrapped around my head and my big white Electric sunglasses

What Portland event/concert are you looking forward to?
Eddie Izzard at the Schnitz? That man cracks me up. I saw him drunk on the street in New York once... funny story.
What was the last thing you bought?
Chie Mihara Crio Mary Janes in off-white from Shoefly.
This edition of the MOD Q+A is for "person whose style we admire".
Brighid's sartorial savvy owes mostly to her totally confidant sense of self--her choices, which usually include brands from Sweden, Antwerp, Berlin, New Zealand and Australia, reflect her sharp and discerning eye. Utterly cool, she constantly garners the attention of photographers and designers and has been in fashion shows and editorials. Check out photographer Chloé Richard to see some more of Brighid...I just can't get enough...

Where are you from? When do you move to Portland? What do you do?
Denton, Texas. I left Texas and moved to Portland – sight unseen – as soon as I was old enough. I celebrated my 6th anniversary in March. I am now a fourth-year student at PSU focusing in Germanic & Scandinavian Studies and Applied Linguistics. I somehow ended up with three jobs. I am spread out between being a nanny and cleaning house/tending to a dog.
Favorite Portland shop:
Stand-Up Comedy. I often want to open my own shop someday, and when I do we’ll be rivals.
Favorite else-where shop:
I otherwise do a lot of online-shopping from stores in New York and abroad. Recent favorites are sevennewyork.com, ashtray.se, reborn.ws, kronkron.com, bestshop-berlin.de, park.co.at, & generalcucumber.com
Place to eat/drink:
A really old personal favorite is M Bar in NW, but I haven’t been there in a couple of years and it probably isn’t the same as I remember; it started to get a lot busier in the last days I lived around there. Its appeal for me was in its size, I think it holds the record for smallest bar in Portland. If you can get in fairly early and sit with just one or two friends, it’s a lovely time. They only serve beer & wine last time I checked.
The items in your wear-every-day outfit:
A pair of raw denim high-waisted Acne jeans, black flats, and an old silk blouse inherited from my mother.
Concert/event you're going to next:
The next Nightclubbing at Holocene on July 3? Please tell me there’s something going on before that.

Travel destination and dream companion:
Iceland, with my cat, Baldr.
Things on your inspiration board:
Braids, horses, masks, a wolf, knots, chains, blood, lightning, taxidermy, swords, prisms, hair, the universe, the ocean, dirt.

Last thing you purchased:
A Christian Wijnants zip-up jacket/dress, purchased from Seven NY.