As previously mentioned, a forum for people in Portland's fashion design community has been scheduled to hash out questions and concerns regarding Portland Fashion Week, for July 12 at the Art Institute (Room 263, 7 pm). Primarily targeting designers and boutique owners/buyers, I also hope that models, previous attendees, former volunteers, etc, will show up to ask questions and voice their concerns and opinions. This organization, and its events, have generated their share of drama and controversy over the years—it hasn't been embraced by the designers to the extent it needs to be to truly represent Portland fashion, for one thing, and while it has begun to generate some interesting smatterings of outside press, many designers have been disappointed in the lack of effect participation has had in generating sales. Those are just two of the main issues at hand, but I've discussed PFW with people from all ends of the industry over the years and I know it's just the tip of what has become something of a quagmire—a quagmire that, like it or not, is the most prominent institution representing Portland fashion to the world. You can't talk about Portland Fashion Week without talking more broadly about fashion design in Portland, and how and why a designer would choose to stay here. In these transitory times those hows and whys seem less clear to me than they once were, and I'd love it if people actually spoke candidly to each other about them.

This week, I keep having these conversations with women I know in which we discuss what we're planning to wear for the almost-always ultra-casual 4th of July festivities. Invariably it involves red, white, and/or blues (mostly denim), but it also always seems to give people license to revel in trashy-kitsch (daisy duke cut-offs and mini jean skirts your mother would never have allowed you out of the house in, Budweiser print string bikinis, tube tops, etc.). Nobody seems act this way for Christmas, or even Valentine's Day. The only thing I can think of that's comparable is Halloween, where so many people tack a "sexy" element onto their costume theme (sexy vampire, sexy baby, sexy Harry Potter, etc). Also, what does it mean that the tackiest things (terry cloth anything, bedazzled-ass jeans, lucite heels, eating Cheetos) suddenly feel right on Independence Day? I'm not saying it's not fun, I'm just saying...

For the record: I do plan to wear a scandalous denim skirt that my mother would have never let me leave the house in.
Your ass could, nay, should be appreciated as a work of art, and the sculptural boost of a good pair of jeans is a good place to start in getting it noticed. I'm assuming that's why Nolita is hitching a ride on the First Thursday wave, and offering 20% off all regularly priced items and buy-one-get-one-half-off on all sale items, both offers being good all day this Thursday until they close up shop at 7.

[Erik just posted this on Blogtown, but I thought it might be of interest to the MOD crowd. —Marjorie]:
So that Leverage show that shoots here? They need extras—specifically, "hip and fashionable men and women to be fashion show attendees, fashion designers, buyers, magazine editors, etc." They're also looking for "runway models" between 18-30 years old who "NEED TO KNOW HOW TO WALK THE RUNWAY." (Christ, I get it, stop shouting at me. That's the last time I show off the walk I learned from Top Model.)
And yes, they're paying—which in times like these, justifies posting notices like this one on Blogtown. Hit the jump for the full press release and all the details.
I took a spin on NW 23rd after work on Friday, where the tremendous potholes dichotomously mark the spaces between some of Portland's ritziest, trendiest, and chain-iest destinations. When The English Dept. initiated the flight to what quickly thereafter became the West End shopping hub, it felt like the street was teetering on the edge of possible doom, with more and more corporate chains (what's up, Free People) popping up to slowly poke holes in the area's personality, and drain it.
But the indies are still putting up a fight, and when I heard that IDOM was moving into the former Seaplane location (827 NW 23rd), it was relieving, not to mention a stellar opportunity for the store, owned by Modi Soondarotok, whose former location on NE Alberta was cute but far from the moneyed tourist foot traffic that marches through Northwest. Plus, it's much more spacious than the previous adorable-but-tiny converted house where it used to live, and the signature orange of the IDOM logo exudes an energetic pop on the already colorful block.

The doors have been open since the first of June, but this evening marks the official grand opening of the new location, from 6-9 pm, during which you can take advantage of a 20% markdown on new summer pieces, plus enter a drawing for an outfit worth up to $350!

This dress always speaks to me. The tiers and cut remind of a vintage piece I used to have habitually steal from a former roommate, until I accidentally shrunk it in a laundry mishap. And I love that it's part of a spring/summer collection, a little counter-intuitively, but is really kind of season-less.
Most likely if you've heard of Anna Korte, you know her as a jewelry artist, her earthy, leather and metal earrings and necklaces dotting the counters and wardrobes of Portland's fine women and boutiques. But this coming Friday at the 811 building's First Friday shenanigan, she'll be unveiling her more literally sculptural side with and installation titled "Metaphysical Mosaic," it is described as "a large scale minimalist installation involving fiber, intention, and the harmony of space." Korte's main current influence? R. Buckminster Fuller, who also made a lasting impression on another Portland designer, Adam Arnold, whose geodesic tailoring details are the result of studying Mr. Fuller's famous geodesic dome. It will be interesting to see how this plays out in Korte's style.

The Installation opens this Friday evening, 5-9 pm, at Sword + Fern.
From an email that just went out:
Owners, Jasmine and Keri would like to offer their boutique to that special person or collective of individuals who would like to carry forward this stylishly unique, independent boutique.
We have decided to sell the business as Jasmine would like to pursue other areas of life and Keri wishes to focus on her clothing line exclusively. If you are motivated, creative and driven, inspired by fashion and would love to be independent and run your own business, this is the perfect opportunity!We are offering the complete package....an already established, highly successful boutique with all the amenities! Approx 1200 sq.ft. of prime retail space with remaining 3 year current lease. Fully stocked with consignment merchandise (all brand new) from over 45 indie designers. This is a turn-key operation....including everything you need to immediately step in and continue forward. It contains all the merchandise, hangars, fixtures, racks, equipment, mannequins, window display props, computer, sound system, customer database, complete e-commerce website....Everything!!!
We will also offer training and support in making the transition smooth and easy.
If you are interested and would like more details, please visit this link for further info:.......... http://www.dragonlily.org/page4/page4.html
If you follow the link you'll find the asking price of $55k. The shop has always had a bit too much of a Burning Man vibe for me to ever truly get into, but it has great potential for someone to come in with a fresh vision... Im very curious to see who, if anyone, takes them up on the offer.
Yeah yeah, American Vogue sucks, but I dare you to resist the temptation of September Issue, the forthcoming documentary feature on Anna Wintour. Though one can't reasonably expect too many surprises, fashion docs have been on a roll (Lagerfeld Confidential and Valentino: The Last Emperor are both worth a spin in the old DVD machine. This one opens in—you guessed it—September, and I suspect I'll be called on for the Merc's review. In the meantime, here's the trailer:
Via Film Drunk.
Screen-printed tees and hoodies generally get short shrift in the fashion world, and not without some good reason. Nonetheless, many dudes and dudettes hinge their entire wardrobes on these worn canvasses—usually paired in a daily formula with a small rotation of denim—in a show of support for the artists who emblazon them. So maybe it's not an especially tailored or meticulously styled look, but for many people it totally works. And just like chicken eggs and vodka, all the better if the designs come from within the city limits. One such line, Giuce Streetwear, will be showcased at a party being thrown at the Crown Room Saturday night (9 pm, $3), in the mix with guest DJ Ayres, plus locals Nature, and Izm—it's the monthly installment of these music/fashion clashes known as "Massive," and it marks their eighth installment. Joining Guice are Var-City Vintage, Capital, Illa Collective, Lizard Lounge, Heart on My Sleeve, and Monster Vintage. Check out this video from the second edition of Massive to get an idea of what you might be in for.
Over the weekend, Olio United debuted the first documentary short profiling a local apparel designer in their new "Makermade" series. I love it, can't wait to see more:
Did you know that the Art Institute's annual fashion show is its largest fundraiser for the Creative Arts Scholarship Fund? Well it is. That's in addition to being a really great show. I love it when altruism and entertainment are combined like that.
This was my first Art Institute show and I was pretty impressed. A few of these kids have a lot of talent. Check out more photos after the jump, I think you'll agree!
Photos by Minh Tran.
A look from Evie Ehrlich's collection:
Mabel & Zora celebrate the third anniversary of their Alberta location tomorrow evening (6-9 pm) at the store, with the requisite wine and cupcakes plus giveaway prizes and drawings, and 15% off their denim selection, which includes Seven for all Mankind, Level 99, Joe's Jeans, and more.

in recent years, Portland Fashion Week has been the only major organization dedicated to Portland fashion. Not so anymore, with the emergence of the Portland Fashion Synergy group, whose aims are more widespread than an annual fashion show of the caliber found in fashion capitals. They're interested in developing local means of production (founder May Tee also started the Filo factory, which has since joined forces with Kenneth Doswell of Betty Jean Couture's N Portland operations, an ambitious co-joining that bodes well and exciting for high quality production work in town), and are facilitating an exchange with designers and buyers in China, for instance. Their monthly meeting took place on Thursday, where they finally hammered out the main players:
President: May Tee
Vice President: Thomas Desouza
Secretary: Heather Shroyer
Treasurer: Kenneth Doswell
Director of Event Planning: Jillian Rabe
Director of Scholarships: Christa Taylor
Director of Memberships: Almarina Bianchi
Nominations have been agreed upon by the founded members
Advisory Board Members
Representative of Designers - Sarah Wallace
Representative of International Affairs - Kerry Yu
The following Advisory Board Positions are to be established this week. As the commitments are made for the following positions we will notify the rest of the organization.
Retail Representative:
Designer Rep: Sarah Wallace
Attorney:
Financial Officer:
PR/Media:
Marketing:
Manufacturer:
Brand Advisors:
Education Entity - e.g. AI:
City Rep.:
While it would seem like the obvious, and mutually beneficial thing for PFW and PFS to work together, after a few initial attempts, PFS has officially decided that—at least for now—it is going to keep itself out of PFW's business. From the meeting minutes:
4)Portland Fashion Week
-We will not be participating in Portland Fashion Week for Fall of 2009 at this time.
-Perhaps with time Portland Fashion Synergy will participate with Portland Fashion Week in the future.
-An upcoming meeting is to be scheduled with the Board of Directors and Portland Fashion Week.
I believe that is what they call a "dis." Hit the jump for bios of the board members.
Agave, purveyor of American made denim and other apparel for men and women, moved their headquarters to this neck of the woods some months ago, and this Saturday marks the grand opening of an outlet denim store, with discounts in the 50-80% range, meaning actual outlet discounts! The line in general is not that exciting, but there are tons of perfectly serviceable, quality basics in the range—beyond denim, think knit tanks and a totally solid leather jacket. The outlet is located in Ridgefield WA (6210 South 11th St.), which is not as far as it sounds—14 miles north and just off I-5.
This shindig takes place this Saturday, from 10 am to 6 pm, with an open design studio, free food, drink, and music, and a denim exchange wherein you bring in your used dungarees to be donated to regional homeless shelters, and you can tack an addition 10% off your already discounted goods from the store.


Hit the break for views of the store, too.
Samantha Pleet, who you may know as a sort of queen of the romper, is coming to town for a trunk show at Frances May this coming Friday evening (6-8 pm). This is your chance to peep the new collection for fall (which is frankly not very romper-centric at all), and snag spring samples at a bargain.

I'm not much of a sneaker person (the high heeled versions are generally an abomination, and they pretty much all are manufactured under circumstances that put my faint liberal heart on high alert), but I just received the look book for Converse's fall styles, and there's pretty much only one I think worthy of note: They collaborated with Woolrich (no Pendleton, true, but an American institution nonetheless) to make some woolly versions of the classic low- and hi-tops. The question that then remains is whether the whole workwear/neo-grunge embrace of buffalo checks and such that gained traction during the latter half of '08 will have enough momentum to remain cool come fall. Me, I just like the red ones.

…YES, the band. (Okay, that was an End Hits joke. Sorry.)
While you rarely hear of the Gossip doing much (besides resting, and shopping at New Seasons, presumably) in PDX compared to their widely documented shenanigans around the world—in the UK and LA particularly—Beth Ditto still counts as a Portlander. It follows that her new line for the plus-size UK retailer Evans (owned by the Top Shop suits) is of local interest, even if you can only buy it from a computer in Portland. Perhaps you saw the article in yesterday's NYT Thursday Styles about plus-size fashion, featuring Ms. Ditto and Fat Fancy (who we once collaborated with on a makeover giveaway, you'll recall)? If not it's worth checking out. And while the Evans line isn't set to make its debut until early next month, Jezebel has a slide show up.

Holly Johnson of Bishops Barbershops sent me (okay, a little belatedly) some snaps of the Bishops float from last weekend's Pride Parade, which naturally was festooned with hair of every shade. In case you missed what was reportedly a humdrum affair overall, here's a glimpse:



Faithful followers of local fashion tore themselves away from the seemingly endless string of barbecue-centric parties this weekend (seriously everyone I saw seemed utterly exhausted) for fall collections from five Portland designers at an event called PDX Collections on Sunday evening. The outdoor runway show kicked off with the sharp angles of Sharon Blair's menswear influenced collection, dominated by military-inspired jackets and trousers, although the best looks, in my opinion, were softened with skirts, particularly a full black and white striped piece pleated at the hips. In general, the line was more successful at the lesser end of the severity scale, when it steered away from being overworked.


Hit the jump for more comments and photos by Minh Tran.
Remember when all the hot punk girls were wearing tight black Carhartt cargo jeans with the ankles cuffed? (Apparently they are good for something called "hard labor" too?) My roommate had a pair that I habitually swiped until they were more mine than hers, and I loved them but had to give them up when I got my own apartment. At that point there was a rumor/urban legend that Carhartt had changed the cuts of their pants and you could no longer get them in the skinny fit, and I didn't really try very hard to replace them. (Does anybody know if this is really true? It's entirely possible that they simply stopped carrying that cut for a single season at Fred Meyers or something. And although there is a "slim fit" listed on their web site, it's hard to tell without trying them on.)
With the recessionary workwear trend in full swing, however, you might be pleased to know that there is a new store in town (out at 10243 NE Cascades Parkway, near the IKEA) called, aptly enough, The Carhartt Store, specializing in nothing but all things Carhartt: clothing, shoes, and accessories. It's not actually owned by the company, however, but was opened by Oregonian Buzz Wheeler, who also owns the Coastal Farm & Ranch stores.
While I intend to remain the only American I know who has never set foot inside an IKEA, I'm tempted to check again on those slim fitting dungarees... if indeed they do still exist.

UPDATE: Photos of the new store after the break.
(Gosh that name sounds oddly familiar...)
PDX Collections is another calendar event for the weekend, with—get this—new Fall collection from a new generation of Portland designers: Adam Andreas, Studio SKB (busy weekend), Clair, Carolyn Hart, and Janeane Marie. I'm excited to check out the other elements being showcased too—the N Portland studio (at 1121 N Loring) is also home to aerial performance artists (Night Flight) who are also set to perform, photographers, prop artists, and more... sounds like a good place to hang out. Technically the deadline to rsvp is passed, but perhaps they'll let you come? No promises! If not, stay tuned for the photos!
Here's a peek from Janeane Marie's collection, "2024," taken by Ben Pigao.

Aritzia is ever-more stridently alerting you, via me, of its new Portland boutique, open today. After carpet bombing the office with $25 gift cards, all of which ended up in my mailbox (yay for me, except that they can't be combined, meaning I'll have to make separate trips to redeem them in $25 installments, all prior to their date of expiration on July 27th!), they've also gifted me with the power of embedding this invitation to their private pre-sale June 12-17:
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Wow. That's a lot of code.
Pros: Hello, peep that list of brands. I've been particularly jonesing for a pair of Current/Elliot and/or Ksubi jeans for the summer and beyond, plus I like the looks of these jackets they collaborated on with Mackage quite a bit, and I think they might be out-of-season enough to get a triple whammy discount when combined with the pre-sale and one of them there GCs:

Cons: It's a chain store, with seven locations in Canada, one in London, and this is their sixth in the States. It's also in Washington Square, next to Pottery Barn.
Do with this what you will.
Calendar Item: Explode La Mode's third edition is kicking off this Saturday at the Someday Lounge, where in addition to the runway show you'll be able to dance into the AM with DJs Kassette, Paperstack, and Dr. Adam. This year's lineup:
Tony Dimitri, Erhart, Studio SKB, Revival Clothing, Element Couture, Robin Forsythe, Kehle Schmeller, Ehlers Productions, Urban Girl NW, Atomic Daylight, Schwarz & Weiß, Layers Squared, and Lizz Dot Kay.
The new location's more party prone than the P:ear gallery that held last year's event, so expect anything but an austere presentation. This show is all about fun and inclusion (I know, fashion and inclusion? Only in PDX!): Peep the video of the 2nd edition to get a feel:
And, on a personal note, check out the shoes that Jason Ehlers of Ehlers Productions just made for me along with my friend Chris—my first pair of locally made shoes!!

(Photo by Jesse Champlin)
Portland Fashion Week is coming around the bend again (October 7-11, and also full disclosure: I have been an increasingly delinquent member of the Advisory Board for what now, two years? I didn't know if I was on the board anymore but I ran into Tito Chowdhury on Friday at May Tee's Parallel trunk show—the new location is great, by the way, and May has been making some pieces under the $200 mark for, um, "aspirational" fashion fans like me—and he told me I was, so there.)
Anyhow, PFW has a way of kicking off a storm of debate every time it comes up (Sample topics: What purpose does it/should it serve? Who are those people in the VIP section? Is it too expensive for the designers to participate? Is it trying to make Portland something it's not? Should the City be more involved? Is green fashion too faddish to use as a theme? And so on and on.). Luckily, Portland Fashion Synergy is in the process of trying to organize a forum (?) or panel (?) where prospective participants can hash some of this out—stay tuned for details.
In the meantime, it's been announced that registration is now open for press and buyers—one thing that's clear is that PFW will only be successful if it is able to attract buyers, no? And, there is no fee for wholesale and boutique buyers. If you are such a person, send an email here with your credentials. Also, enjoy this rather unnecessarily effusive video highlighting last year's event:

The Art Institute will be hosting its 11th annual year-end fashion show, The Fine Art of Fashion. This year's theme is "Silhouettes," which apparently means the show's overarching theme involves structural "forms" and a mostly black and white color scheme. Seriously, guys — flowy, vibrant Pucci-inspired summertime duds are totally irrelevant in these tough times. Featured designers include apparel alums, as well as upcoming senior designers and faculty members. Bonus: all proceeds benefit the Creative Arts Scholarship Fund. The show will be at 8 pm on June 20th, at Luxe Autohaus (doors at 7). Tickets are $15 for students (with ID) and $25 for general admission; you can get them here.
JonnyX and the Groadies